Great Food Houston

Slather me in cheez and onion: The Philly Cheesesteak Challenge

2011-05-31T16:40:00.004-05:00

I’m not sure where I initially heard about the the Philly Cheesesteak Challange, but the idea stuck in my head like chewed up gum on the bottom of my shoe in the grocery store parking lot today. After all, nothing says culinary genius like fake cheese on bread. With meat. All in excessively excessive excess. So what is it?

Geno’s and Pat’s are two long-standing Philly institutions, cranking out cheesesteaks directly across the street from one another. In my head, the relationship between the pair is much like that of Cheers vs. Gary’s Olde Town Tavern, a heated rivalry that involves much fist-shaking and I’ll-get-you’s.

Over the years I’ve researched the challenge, pouring over write-ups and verifying the locations, talking to people who’d done it and learning the history of the establishments. Yes, I’d heard that both venues have declined through the years, rejected by Philly elders and Old Pharts for the newer, prettier offerings around town. But there festering away was a challenge too captivating to pass up: a Cheez Whiz’d hoagie at Pat’s, followed by a comparative second one from Geno’s across the street.

How. Barbarically. Awesome.

My annual baseball trip this year provided the right opportunity for such an inane feat. Not only would I be a bean toss away in Baltimore, but I’d be with a ragtag group that’s just lackadaisical enough to go along with the plan. I could taste the Yellow-5 already. So last week we sped off from Baltimore in our rented Chevy Equinox, passing through Delaware for the tiniest moment, arriving in Philly at the lunch hour.

First stop? Pat’s. Pat’s touts itself as the King of Steaks… And asks you not to make a “misteak” by going to somewhere else. Like Geno’s across the street. Pat’s, which opened in 1930, has history on its side; it’s in an old-school white building with a classic set-up. Thankfully, the folks who run the place have included a primer on the vernacular of placing your order because it’s that complicated.

I arrive at the front and spout my order with the feigned wisdom of a thousand Philly Phanatics: “Wit whiz,” I say. I rule at this.

The cheesesteak wit whiz at Pat’s looked exactly as you’d expect: A long hoagie roll, filled with iPad-thin sliced ribeye, then topped with diced onions and gluey-orange cheese. Just looking at it was magnificent—but biting into it was brilliance. The white bread was soft and welcoming; it has a velvety feel. The meat was cheesy, and the cheese was meaty. We licked the paper wrapping afterward. Nothing, it seems, could top this greatness. Except, maybe, a repeat performance.

PAT’S
Bread: 5 barbells
Meat: 3 barbells
cheese: 4 barbells
Overall ooze: 4.5 barbells
(All rankings out of 5 barbells)

Second stop? Geno’s. In contrast to its rival, Geno’s opened in 1966 in a neon-orange building; it’s covered in police paraphernalia and offers mostly standing/counter eating. The crowd at Geno’s was noticeably thinner. (That’s to say that there were fewer people there.) In fact, we skipped right up to the window, placed our order, and walked away with gut bomb in hand in under a minute.

Even wrapped in paper this thing looks large. (Side note: it also weighs slightly less than a V2 missile—but like the German at Pearl Harbor, I will not be defeated.) We unwrap and notice a few differences immediately. The bread at Geno’s was harder and dry—more like French bread than a loafy roll—and the cheese was thinner and scant. But less cheese meant we had a firmer grasp on the meat, which was sliced dollah-bill thin. And while the meat held tremendous flavor and polish, the bread and cheese fails left Geno’s far back, wallowing in the Philadelphia philth.

GENO’S
Bread: 3 barbells
Meat: 4 barbells
cheese: 2 barbells
Overall ooze: 2.5 barbells
(All rankings out of 5 barbells)

In sum, Pat’s was awesome, totally smoking the competition from Geno's. While I don’t generally seek out IBS, Pat’s is a sandwich I’d go back for.

(And with that, I hope Geno is shaking his grandpa fist somewhere.)

Finally, I now know that Houston’s newest cheesesteak place – Pappa Geno’s – offers a pretty authentic take on the sandwich. But ironically, it’s more akin to Pat’s than to its namesake. Perhaps they should have called it Pappa Patrick’s, butwhatdoiknow.

Sweet and Savory: The Lucky Dog Dinner

2011-04-13T12:57:00.006-05:00

Every few months, pastry chef Rebecca Masson corrals some of the finest and most buzz-worthy chefs in Houston for a multi-course meal benefitting Lucky Dog Rescue. I finally made it to one of these storied dinners this past Sunday, and… Well, wow.

Sunday’s event featured seven courses with seven different chefs—outstanding, outrageous, outspoken chefs who were each given one course to showcase their culinary wares. The resulting dinner was a series of food fireworks that meshed perfectly with the wonderful weather and amiable atmosphere to create what’s certainly one of my favorite meals in recent memory. Oh la la!

And it went a little something like this. Guests checked into the event with a delicious pork snuggie from the Eatsie Boys, one of the newest and most popular vendors in Houston’s burgeoning food truck biz. The snuggie paired beautifully with its partner, a lovely vodka-ginger-hibiscus punch. Truly sweet and savory. (Marcy Jimenez of the Houston Wine Merchant did the pairings.)

Onward! The first seated course was a gorgeous display of clam varietals on a bed of leeks and rice from Ryan Pera. The dish was also topped with the very first salumi to come out of Pera’s new Revival Market... Pig parts—yum! Next came a delicious rendition of smoked pork sopes with chipotle-tomato jam and pickled red onions from Cyclone Anaya’s Jason Gould. The dish was texturally complete with its accompanying cotija-avocado puree, which I would now like to live in.

And then came Seth Siegel-Gardner’s midpoint masterpiece, the third seated course and my favorite dish of the night: toasted lavender meringues paired with Barely Buzzed Cheddar from the Houston Dairymaids and topped with nasturtium and chicory. But get this: also floating around the plate were chunks of apples that had been baked in a coffee crust. So that’s bitter-tartness with a sweet-creaminess; in short, a perfect plate.

Three desserts followed: Uchi’s Philip Speer created a savory-sweet pretzel ice cream with beer foam, mustard sauce, crumbled peanuts, and a spear of chocolate ganache. Rebecca Masson’s pistachio macaron filled with rhubarb-raspberry ice cream was a standout, accidentally reminiscent of a burger and fries, and I loved the sparkling red wine that came alongside it. And Chris Leung from Bootsie’s capped the evening with a tremendously rich chocolate ganache with lemon and caramel accents, plus a more savory caraway ice cream.

Not lost in the fabulous food was the fact that the dinner was a charity event, complete with a dynamite silent auction (Sadly, I lost out on the preview dinner at Underbelly, making me bittersweet and savory), plus amazing gift bags for every guest. In total, the evening raised $7300 for Lucky Dog Rescue. Happy tails, indeed.

The next Lucky Dog Dinner happens in October. I'll be there, and I hope you will, too.

5 Reasons I'm Geeked About Revival Market

2011-03-20T13:48:00.016-05:00

Revival Market, a rad new source for fresh local bounty, is officially ready to open—tomorrow morning! Here are five reasons to get super-excited, Houston.

1) Morgan Weber and Ryan Pera. These guys are going to make *great* neighbors. We already know that they’re kind to animals and good with a garden, but they’re also incredibly knowledgable and just plain nice. Wait, what’s that...? Oh — I think my property value just went up!

2) Fantastic meat selection. Revival Market was initially slated to be a butchery; it’s just our dumb luck that it turned out to be so much more. But the owners’ dedication to quality meats that are humanely raised and their expertise with cuts and preparation dictates that this place is gonna be a meat heaven-destination-party-place.

3) Awesome take-away food. Ryan Pera is a classically trained French chef who knows his way around a spice rack. Last week I sampled a fabulously simple local carrot salad and a dynamite-delicious Asian duck slaw (pictured below), both of which I can’t wait to add to my regular dinner rotation. They’ll soon have a full case of similar offerings, plus lunchtime grab-and-go sandwiches.

4) Locally sourced products. Local bounty abounds! Farmers now have a daily outlet for their goods, rather than relying solely on a weekly or bi-weekly trip to the farmers markets. They sell more and waste less—and we have better access to awesomely fresh local produce. Wins all around. It’s also an incredible repository for local products like cheese, eggs, honeys, jams, breads, and desserts.

5) A kickin’ coffee bar. I have one cup of java daily. No more, sometimes less. I don’t need anything fancy, but I do like to splurge on weekends. Great — Revival Market offers a full coffee bar (open at 6:30 a.m. on weekdays) with beans from local roasters like Katz, Amaya, and Fusion, plus pastries from Kraftsmen. Eventually they’ll offer hot breakfast items, too—like steel-cut oatmeal and breakfast sandwiches. Yum!

You’ll find Revival Market at 550 Heights Boulevard (at White Oak) in Houston's Heights neighborhood. It'll be open weekdays from 6:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. (it opens a bit later and closes a bit earlier on weekends). Can’t wait to drop by and give those guys a spirited high-five or twelve... See you there!

Scenes from San Francisco

2011-03-06T13:01:00.004-06:00

Somehow I got lucky: I live in Houston, but my office is in San Francisco. So I work from home almost exclusively, but return to SF about once a quarter to put in some face time at the office. I’m not gonna lie… It rawks. I spent last week out there on that crazy left coast, catching up on all my favorite things—and trying some decidedly new things with some of my favorite people. Here’s a summary.

Now that Blue Bottle has a storefront in the Ferry Building, I can skip over for my workday morning coffee. Hooray! Sure, craploads of places in SF now use Blue Bottle beans—but it’s not the same as having one of those skillful baristas work up your chosen buzz agent. Here is my gorgeous (and mega delicious) Blue Bottle latte.

When my friend Julie told me about the bacon-wrapped mochi at Chotto, I couldn’t wrap my head around what it’d be like—but the dish was so creatively amazing, we had to order a second. The meaty and crisp bacon paired beautifully with the chewy consistency and basic taste of the mochi. I wanted each bite to last forever. And with the mochi’s crazy texture, they almost did.

After Japanese on night one, I had Italian four dinners in a row. This is odd, as I rarely go out for Italian in Houston. When I tweeted about our extraordinary meal at Flour + Water, @tasty_bitz responded, capturing my swirling sentiments perfectly: “Does it make you a little sad about the state of Italian food in Houston?” Yep, a little bit. After all, this pasta dish—tiny dumplings filled with game hen and pancetta—is made of awesome.

It was @tetsujustin that told me about Una Pizza Napoletana, a small place serving some of the best pizza in the country. The menu contains five pizzas, all very similar, and an arrogantly strict warning: “All pizzas are 12” round, no slices. No substitutions or alterations. Pizzas come as listed below only. No condiments available.” They do it their way, or not at all. It’s a good thing their way is spectacular.

This banana and dulce de leche empanada could have used more filling, but the pastry was outta this world. The fragile outer layers gradually attained purchase as they circled closer to the center. It wasn’t dry or bready; just lightly firm, a perfect afternoon snack. When will we have an empanada stand in Houston?

Farm egg raviolo at Cotogna: the image below is basically a gargantuan ravioli with a poached egg inside. Break it open, and the yolk spills out, masking the plated brown butter sauce below. The thing was beautiful, rich, and gloriously decadent. We split it among three of us, which was both utterly perfect and horribly wrong.

The Ferry Plaza Farmers Market is, perhaps, my favorite way to spend a Saturday morning. I capped my week in San Francisco with my friend Jamie, gnoshing on flavorful pork buns, delicate oysters, and a sinfully good burger from the 4505 Meat Company (below). Doesn't it just look like a place that sells happy?

And after six days away, no matter how fun, I’m always happy to come back home.

Hello again, Houston!

My Latest Obsession: Latin Bites Café

2011-03-01T12:25:00.000-06:00

Houston’s economy is squarely on track. At least that’s what the recent influx of new restaurants would have us believe. But hidden among the mediocre, the standard, and the just plain gimmicky is the Latin Bites Café, my low-key new favorite and a shining beacon of a culinary gem.

Latin Bite Café is Peruvian by birth, but compiles its menu with clear influences from all of South America, plus a little Asia, and even some Africa thrown in for good measure. How’s that? Well, most of what you’ll find is South American in nature — like the thick empanadas encasing tender meats and veggies that arrive alongside two bright dipping sauces. But stir-fries conjure up the Asian, and meaty stews offer a taste of Africa.

Dishes are fun and fresh. The technicolored ceviches are stunningly great, different from any I’ve had. Almost nightly I dream about the ceviche mixto, a plate of marinated shrimp, octopus, and fish, served with tender hunks of sweet potato and giant kernels of Peruvian corn; just add the zingy-zang of a sauce and stir to combine.

And while my menu standbys are clear favorites, I’m just as enamored by the daily specials. A recent lobster club sandwich at lunchtime remains freshly etched in my memory, and a decidedly decadent lobster risotto topped with beautifully pink strips of filet mignon was unsane — that’s right, unsane — as delicious as it was distinct.

The tiny Latin Bites space is BYOB and fills quick like lightning, so be sure to make a reservation if you go. It’s a sparse dining area that reverberates with laughter and care, great for a working lunch, a casual date, or a night out with friends. Enjoy!

Ten Favorite Meals of 2010

2011-01-03T16:16:00.008-06:00

It’s no secret that the best meals are more than just food; they’re about the family, friends, and feelings you share while taking in the dishes. A truly exceptional meal engages the senses and leaves you with a well-rounded, happy-go-lucky, when-can-we-do-this-again sensation.

Below are my ten favorite restaurant meals of 2010. The one commonality among them is that I went in with no expectations, and emerged with a feeling of completeness. And while they all included exceptional dishes, they also remind me that good food is best when shared with good company.

American Seasons (Nantucket, MA)
The tiny island of Nantucket grows most of its own produce and raises most of its own meats. Dozens of restaurants on the island capitalize on the fantastic abundance of local ingredients, but American Seasons is my favorite, executing a creative daily menu with flair... Last summer my family and I enjoyed an exceedingly pleasant meal of seared scallops, tempura figs, and Nantucket mushroom tarts.

l’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (London, UK)
My husband and I capped our holiday season with a brief jaunt across the pond. Several restaurants on my list were closed for the week, but that gave us a chance to sample Robuchon’s global appeal at the two-Michelin-starred l’Atelier. The meal was exceptional—from the scallop tartar and egg cocotte to the Iberico ham and foie gras burger. Plus, we sat at the bar, a favorite vantage point of mine.

Bootsie’s Heritage Café (Tomball, TX)
Randy Rucker’s latest venture concentrates on local ingredients served up in outrageously delicious way using interesting techniques. The “3rd coast menu,” a five-course culinary fireworks display for just $35, reminded me just how fun eating can be—and gets me all kinds of excited for Rucker’s next venture, restaurant connate, opening soon. The meal was complete, from small-plate appetizers to larger meats to wowerrific dessert.

Commis (Oakland, CA)
This tiny eatery in Oakland was perhaps my single favorite meal of the year. That’s partially because I had no idea what to expect and was then awed by the jaw-dropping dishes that expertly played with textures, flavors, and styles. Commis has all the pizzazz—with none of the pretention. Fennel bulb soup, wild hake, abalone, and butter-poached chicken… Amazing. Plus I was with my hilarious friend Julie, which always makes everything better.

Just August Project (Houston, TX)
Houston’s first pop-up restaurant stunned diners with creative texture and flavor pairings. I loved that the chefs placed a distinct emphasis on each dish’s accoutrements… Things like powdered red wine vinegar, ash yogurt, black garlic jam, and dehydrated chorizo added a thundering depth, plus a ribbon and bow, to each course. We ate with our ever-entertaining friends Greg and Sharon, which only enhanced the good eats.

Kata Robata (Houston, TX)
After the Just 8 Project, Seth Siegel-Gardner popped up again, joining chef Manabu Horiuchi in the kitchen at Kata Robata for a limited time. Omakaze at the sushi bar offers the best chance for both a stunningly delicious meal, which comes complete with entertainment as you watch them prepare it. We had ten courses this past December, each excellent in its own way. My favorite bite of the night was the grilled sushi rice topped with uni and togarashi lardo. [Swoon!]

Matt’s in the Market (Seattle, WA)
I take a baseball trip with three close buddies from San Francisco every summer... The most recent found us in Seattle, where we happened upon this lovely place—and glad we were. Located in a light-filled haven near the storied Pike’s Place Market, Matt’s is the essence of fresh, cooking almost entirely with local produce and seafood. Buzzed on good weather, good friends, and beer, we sat at the bar and shared oysters, fish stew, and scallop ceviche.

Sons & Daughters (San Francisco, CA)
Dinner at Sons & Daughters was a last-minute venture on my recent trip to San Francisco. Went there on the rec of a trusted advisor… and then basked in the glory of lamb tartare with dehydrated beet chips, sweetbreads with creamy foie gras, and herb salad with microgreens and edible flowers. We knew nothing about it going in, and it has become a favorite recommendation ever since.

Tag (Denver, CO)
Tag describes its fare as Continental Social, which is somehow supposed to imply that’s it’s unconstrained by geographic borders. Certainly the menu is playful and fun, capitalizing on Chef Troy Guard’s Hawaiian upbringing and global travels. I loved eating the duck fat fries and sliders, stunning carpacchios, and taco sushi, but I had even more fun watching my young nieces reveal in the sushi topped with candy pop rocks.

Uchi (Austin, TX)
We went to Uchi on the night after we got engaged, so I was probably too in love to truly notice the food in front of me. Mmm-hmmm, I honestly can’t remember the specifics of a single thing we ate, but I do remember the overwhelming happiness as I coupled incredible food with an overwhelming feeling of joy. Not that I’ll be able to emulate that again, but I simply can’t wait to return.

Honorable mentions: Lunch in the sun at Gilhooley’s, birthday dinner at Brennan’s, testing the entries for the Peking Duck Food Fight, girls night at Vic & Anthony’s, lunch at Japadog in Vancouver, and happy hour at Catalan.

State of the City: 2011

2010-12-23T17:57:00.019-06:00

I’m sorry to see 2010 come to a close. It was the year I got both engaged and married and switched from teaching high school English back to full-time copywriting. I traveled, I lived, I lounged, and I ate. But I’m certainly excited to see what 2011 has in store.

Houston tends to fly under the radar of the national food scene, but that’s alright by me. Yes, I loved seeing Bryan Caswell on The Next Iron Chef this year, and it’s cool to see Houston on John Mariani’s list of Best Restaurant Cities, but I think our food scene rather benefits from the relative national obscurity. After all, the Bayou City has been setting off culinary fireworks left and right this year, thanks to generally amiable attitudes from kitchen compatriots and diner darlings alike. No pressure, little drama; just a friendly competitive spirit.

Here are a few reasons I enjoyed the 2010 culinary air around town.

MORE LOCAL DIVERSITY
In one especially eclectic week last summer, I ate Serbian, Filipino, Moroccan, Japanese, Korean, Vietnamese, and Mediterranean food... in addition to my usual fare. Recently I had Ethiopian food for the first time in eight years, and then went next door for a post-meal pupusa with bubble tea. Friends like Dr. Ricky and Jay Rascoe introduced me to Hot Pot, Peking Duck, and the wonderous array of taco trucks. Maybe the diversity, itself, isn’t new, but perhaps our growing desire to seek it out is.

MORE BEER DINNERS
Wine is typically the chosen buzz agent at fine-dining establishments, but this year the beautiful brewsky stepped into the foreground. We began flocking to beer-loving places like Petrol Station and Liberty Station, and restaurants began offering fancy-pants beer dinners. I attended the Southern Star beer dinner at VOICE in May, but was sorry to miss those Stone Brewing beer dinners at Vic & Anthony’s, among others. Perhaps this also reflects our growing preference for casual dinners and comfort foods.

MORE COLLABORATION
It’s not just restaurants and breweries working together... Chefs are sharing kitchens, too, wowing eaters by combining culinary repertoires. There was the Lazy Summer Repast featuring chefs from Chez Roux, Bootsie’s, and the Just 8 Project. Shortly after that came the 10-10-10 dinner: 10 courses and 10 drink pairings from Seth Siegel-Gardner, Justin Yu, and David Buehrer, held at Paulie’s in Montrose. Pastry chefs Plinio Sandalio and Rebecca Masson even held their own collaborative dessert tasting.

MORE LOCAL INGREDIENTS
Houston has never been known as a local food mecca, but that’s starting to change as restaurants citywide are spotlighting our local bounty on their menus -- or even growing their own. Eh, we’re no California, but Texas does have a surprising girth of local foods in the form of Gulf seafood, local cheeses, area beers, and Texas tomatoes, peaches, and grapefruits. Look for them on menus citywide, area farmers markets, or at the soon-to-open Revival Market. Hooray!

MORE FOOD TRUCKS AND MOBILE STANDS
The City of Houston is notoriously hard on food trucks, but the community is beginning to prosper despite the strict regulations. Now that a few are up-and-running, they’ve created a kind of support group for one another, offering tips and advice to the newer ones making a go. Everyone’s a winner now that we have stands like Melange Creperie, the Eatsie Boys, and Oh My Pocket Pies. Even some of the brick-and-mortar restaurants are going mobile -- like Hubcap Grill, Armando’s, and Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen.

WISH LIST FOR 2011
Yes, it’s been a banner year for lovely H-Town. And my calendar’s never complete without a list of selfish requests for the year to come.

1) A continuation of the trends from above. Why not? I like where we’re headed.

2) A return to dessert. With all the savory hullabahoo this year, we seem to have forgotten about dessert. Gone are the days when I checked out the dessert menu first to decide whether or not I needed to save room.

3) More pop-up restaurants. The Just August Project opened our eyes to culinary possibilities, creative cheffery, and a new type of dining. More, please!

4) More vegetables. Some of my most memorable dining experiences this year (in Seattle, San Francisco, and Denver) included vegetables in starring roles. I want more of this in Houston, though places like Haven, The Grove, and Bootsie’s are close.

(A plate at OIMBY, a feast made almost entirely from locally sourced foods.)

The Culinary Camaraderie at Kata Robata

2010-12-16T21:17:00.010-06:00

It’s fantastically awesome to see that there’s so much *fun* going on in the kitchens around town. Truly, the restaurants are thriving these days are the ones that don’t take themselves too seriously and continue to step up their games by playing with flavors and techniques. They love it, we love it; it’s textbook win-win. One only need follow Randy Rucker (of Bootsie’s Café) or Carlos Rodriguez (of Vic & Anthony’s) on Twitter to see an endearing sort of kitchen camaraderie going on... It’s the kind that spills from the kitchen to the dining room via a freight train of fabulous food.

I wouldn’t have pegged Seth Siegel-Gardner and Manabu Horiuchi to have that sort of Be/Fri relationship, but the pair is making sweet, sweet gastronomy together at Kata Robata. Hori is a classically trained sushi chef from a small town outside Tokyo. Siegel-Gardner is a Houston native who has honed his cheffery at next-level places like the Fat Duck in London at C-House in New York. Each is a culinary genius in his own right—and now they’re combining their knowledge and packing a serious one-two punch for Houston diners to enjoy. For a limited time.

Below are some photos from my omakase experience at Kata Robata last night. All of these items are from the recently overhauled menu, which you should try as soon as is possible. Siegel-Gardner will be sharing the spotlight at Kata Robata for the next few months before possibly moving on, so the time is now.

Honey mussels from British Columbia. The one on the left has a light citron vinaigrette and char roe; the one on the right has a cucumber vinaigrette and ponzu. Simple, smooth, and totally flavorific.

House smoked salmon served with puffed salmon skin, thin sliced pickles, and a purple cabbage reduction. The puffed skin adds a nice measure of savory.

My favorite dish of the night: Grilled sushi rice topped with smooth uni and a rich togarashi lardo, served with a poached quail egg. Mega flavor fireworks with every bite.

A paper-thin slice of dehydrated short rib. Below is the rest of the dish: Perfectly hydrated Akaushi beef short ribs with broccoli stems and toasted nori yogurt. Amazing.

Barbecued unagi under a pile of powered bone marrow snow. Supine in the background is a slice of foie gras studded with stripes of unagi sauce. Pure decadence.

Fresh toro tar tar with wasabi vinaigrette, kumquat cream, and crunchy gobo chips. Simple and light, a beautiful mix of textures, served with just the right accoutrements.

Salmon and lightly fried softshell crab studded with Korean barbecue powder and togarashi. On the other side of the plate was the pork belly roll topped with hardboiled egg and a seedless slice of jalapeno.

Shockingly light puffs of doughnut: A coconut one lies in the foreground. The ones in the back are filled, one with sweet potato and the other with red bean paste. A stunning way to end a stunningly delicious meal.

Popover Mania

2010-11-22T15:00:00.006-06:00

The first time I had a popover, I remember wondering what kind of magical ingredients could make a breadform so airy and light… Was it yeast? Fairy dust? Unicorn tears?

Turns out, it’s none of the above. Even though popovers might taste like little pillows of heaven, they’re actually quite earthly to make. So easy, in fact, that I’ve been wearing out my new popover pan with a steamy batch almost daily. Yes, my popover obsession is both otherworldly and out of hand. And while I like to savor them, I’m not ruling out a game of Chubby Bunny this Thanksgiving either. Mmmm!

Below is my family’s tried-and-true recipe for popovers, the one I keep coming back to... my golden standard. And as friends have suggested, I’ve also been kicking this basic version up by adding chopped nuts, a pat of soft cheese, or a dollop of strawberry jam to each batter’d cup.

In our world of excess, it’s nice to find a recipe that’s as simple as it is scrumptious. But that doesn’t mean I don’t overindulge in the bad boys below. Happy Turkey Day!

CLASSIC POPOVERS
2 large eggs
1 cup milk, room temperature
1 tablespoon butter, melted
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup flour (bread flour works best)
1/8 cup sugar (or less)

Preheat oven to 450. Beat egg, then add milk, melted butter, salt, flour, and sugar. Mix until smooth and well combined. Place popover pan (or muffin tin) in oven to heat for five minutes. Remove pan, spray with cooking spray, and fill cups about 1/2 to 2/3 with batter. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 and bake until popovers are puffed and golden, 15-20 minutes more. Do not open oven door during baking or popovers may fall. Finally, remove popovers and use a knife to knock a small slit in the top of each popover to vent the steam. Return to oven and bake for 5-10 minutes more until golden brown. Remove from oven and serve hot. Makes 6 classic popovers, or 12 using a muffin tin.

NOTES: 1) I've taken to making the batter right in my large mixing cup, which makes for easy pouring into the pan. 2) Last night I tried using a muffin tin; the popovers cooked much faster and weren't quite as airy. Cook be that I overcooked them a bit, though.

Local Holiday Gift Guide

2010-11-19T14:26:00.016-06:00

As December approaches, we’re often tasked with finding the perfect holiday or hostess gift. Below is a list of gift ideas that support our fabulous local Houston-area food community. I’ve broken them up into five groups: gifts that give back, ideas for the food lover, cookbooks to catch, drink suggestions, and creative local favorites that just didn’t fit anywhere else. Enjoy!

GIFTS WITH A CONSCIENCE
The Center is a wonderfully inspiring nonprofit that serves Houstonians with mental retardation. Why not gift some of their famous gingersnaps or cheesesnaps for the holidays? Both offerings come in gorgeous tins, no gift wrap required. Similarly, the Brookwood Community for adults with special needs sells fabulous salad dressings, roasted pecans, and jalapeno jelly. All items are wonderful and keep well in the fridge or freezer. Katz Coffee features three flagship cause coffees: Buffalo Bayou Partnership, Friends of Enchanted Rock, and Austin’s Bat Conservation International. Each organization has its own specialty beans, and 50 cents of every pound sold goes directly to that charity. Need something longer lasting? Urban Harvest sells fantastic “I Dig Houston” shirts at its Eastside, Discovery Green, and City Hall farmers’ markets for $15, with proceeds benefiting the gardening community. Or try a donation to the Houston Food Bank. A special card lets them know that a donation was made in their names, and you can tell them the part about how $1 in the hands of the Houston Food Bank can provide a full day of meals for someone in need. HFB also sells coffee mugs, tote bags, and cute holiday ornaments made in the HFB youth programs.

FOOD LOVERS
It’s super fun to troll the farmers’ markets for various things to give to family and friends. How about some of the fantastically earthy olive oil from the Texas Hill Country Olive Company? You could pair it with a fresh baguette from Slow Dough or Angela’s Oven and a hunk of local cheese from the Houston Dairymaids. On the other hand, you could also offer some homemade granola with a tub of creamy goat’s milk yogurt from Swede Farm and some delicious local honey from Bee Wilde. You could always pack up some cured meats from Chris Shepherd at Catalan. Some people might *love* the Gluten-Free Holiday Kit from Gluten Free Houston. Or if you really need to wow ‘em, try a ready-to-bake cheese soufflé from Elizabeth Swift. They are? To. Die. For.

COOKBOOK CONNOISSEURS
We’re Houston proud of our local cookbook celebs... Among Robb Walsh’s hometown collection, Sex, Death, & Oysters is pretty much a must-have. Or if you’re thinking of something a little more ethnic, Indo-Houstonian Shubhra Ramineni’s Entice with Spice offers dozens of fantastic Indian-inspired recipes with stunning photos and detailed explanations. Shubhra’s subtitle is “Easy Indian Recipes for Busy People,” and she takes great care to create accessible recipes without compromising the distinct flavors. My old standbys are the Junior League of Houston cookbooks, which offer fabulous meal ideas while giving a little something back to the Houston community (a portion of the books’ proceeds goes to Texas Children’s Hospital). If a magazine’s more your style, My Table has a holiday special: Buy one subscription at regular price ($24 for a one-year subscription of six issues) and get unlimited gift subscriptions at half-off.

SWEET THANGS
Give your friends a trip down Memory Lane with a bag of Fluffernutters from the Fluff Bake Bar. Need more variety? You could also give the super cute cookies from Paulie’s, the gorgeous macarons from Maison-Burdisso, or the sensational cupcakes from Jodycakes. Want something more versatile? Then perhaps a few cinnamon rolls from Sinfull Bakery. If all else fails, a gift card to Hank’s ice cream just might do the trick. Maybe you can get them to sell ya a pint of peppermint!

BEVERAGE IDEAS
For the beer enthusiast, give a grab bag of local brews from St. Arnold’s and Southern Star. St. Arnold’s even offers a super duper Christmas Ale. Plenty of other labels have seasonal offerings, too -- they’re just not brewed right here in your backyard. Tito’s Vodka and Deep Eddy sweet tea vodka are from right up the street in Austin. Or if you’re looking for something a little more tame, try Mexican hot chocolate mix from El Bolillo or a gift card to a local coffee shop, like Antidote or Catalina.

CITY FAVORITES
Howsabout a tshirt from our local favorite burger chain? Customize your Whataburger shirt the same way you customize your burger. Tamales always make great gifts, and Berryhill sells thousands of them over the holidays. Between Thanksgiving and New Year’s only, they’ve got the fabulous turkey tamales. Go get ‘em! For something a little more “little guy” local, you could gift a holiday burger challenge: gift cards to local burger shops Hubcap Grill, the Burger Guys, Becks Prime, and more. Include handmade score cards so you can determine the true Burger King for yourself. Or more creatively, give an herb garden starter kit with planters or seeds from Buchanan’s Native Plants.

Got any more local gift ideas? Let me know, and I’ll add ‘em to the list!

Jus' Mac and Cheesy

2010-11-15T08:50:00.007-06:00

Show me someone who doesn’t love macaroni and cheese, and I’ll show you a liar. The dish is warm, creamy, and comforting… It’s basically a bear hug in a bowl. So strong is my affinity for the stuff, I had a mac-n-cheese bar at my own damn wedding. Sweet! Not that I was really able to partake.

But I had mixed feelings when I heard about Jus’ Mac, a new restaurant based entirely on macaroni and cheese, opening in the Heights. On the one hand, macaroni and cheese is awesome, and it’s great that creative versions are there for the taking. On the other hand, do we really need a gimmicky place that’s destined to fail when the trend grows old? Hmmmm... I was intrigued enough to give it a whirl last week for lunch.

The menu at Jus’ Mac offers a fairly extensive list of creamy mac ‘n cheese options. They’ve got an All-American and a Chili Cheese. The Popeye has spinach, mushrooms, and onions, while the Pit Master is topped with beef brisket. The Rustic comes with basil, roasted tomatoes, garlic, and mozzarella, and the Puebla features roasted poblano peppers. There’s a Buffalo Chicken, a Four-Cheese, and a Bacon Bliss. Along with a handful of other iterations.

As best we could tell, the kitchen just cooks up huge vats of mac ‘n cheese, then adds the toppings to order. I tried the Mexi-Taco, a fake cast-iron skillet of mac-n-cheese topped with ground beef, tomato, onion, avocado, and tortilla chips. And my friend Victoria got a bowl o’ nostalgia: mac-n-cheese topped with hot dog bits and a squiggle of yellow mustard. We both agreed that the toppings were nice -- interesting and creative options, a little something for everyone. But we also agreed that the pasta could use some help in the form of seasoning. As Victoria said, “There’s just something nice about that saltiness that comes from good ol’ American cheese.” And she’s right -- that’s what was missing. The delight here is not the mac-n-cheese, itself, but rather the mask of additional flavors. At $9, the portions seemed pricey; however, neither of us was able to finish our serving and ended up packing up about half to go.

Is this the best mac-n-cheese in town? No, I’d still give those honors to Beaver’s. But if you can get past the annoyingly small parking lot, disposable utensils, and fake cast-iron skillet dishes, Jus’ Mac is fun for a try. Once. Are there enough people to support the spot throughout the years? I have my doubts, but only time will tell.

Delicious Assistance for Thanksgiving

2010-11-11T16:09:00.008-06:00

Preparing an entire Thanksgiving meal on your own can be scarier than snakes, Marilyn Manson, and politics. In that sense, it’s nice to have help with at least a component or two. Here are a few ideas for those of you looking to take it a little easier this holiday.

If you need help with the star of the show, try a smoked turkey from Wood Duck Farm. The farm-raised birds are brined with salt and molasses; then they’re trussed, stuffed, and smoked with Red Oak that's picked fresh from the backyard. You can choose from 1) unstuffed, 2) stuffed with apples, thyme, and rosemary, or 3) stuffed with cilantro, lime, and jalapeno peppers. Sound good? Just place your order online, then pick up the turkey on Tuesday 11/23 at the Rice University farmers market or on Wednesday 11/24 at the City Hall farmers market. Turkeys come in three sizes and price points:

-- A 10-12 lb. dressed bird is $42
-- A 12-14 lb. dressed bird is $49
-- A 16-18 lb. dressed bird is $63

Or maybe you’ve got the dinner down, but can’t even think about dessert. In that case, pastry chef extraordinaire Rebecca Masson is ready to help. This year she’s offering a fabulous pecan pie with an outrageous shortbread crust and a side of philanthropy. Pies cost $25, with $5 of that going directly to the Corridor Rescue program. Order your pies online; then pick them up on Tuesday 11/23 or Wednesday 11/24 (between 12 noon and 5 p.m.) at the Natural Paws store at 514 W 19th Street in the Heights. Deliciously sweet and sinfully easy.

And if you *really* need help this Thanksgiving, you can pick up pretty much anything on the list of traditional Thanksgiving favorites at Central Market. Less fun, maybe -- but also less stress, giving you more time to make hand turkeys and pilgrim hats.

Houston's Cult Classics

2010-11-10T14:35:00.012-06:00

Last week Poor Taste came out with a list of the Top 100 Cult Restaurants in America. What elevates an eatery to that God-like status? Here’s how they measure success:

“First, the restaurant must have a highly devoted customer base and should appeal to locals and tourists. Second, the food must obviously be stellar and unique enough to produce a dedicated clientele. Being home to ‘The Best’ or ‘The Original’ of something helps. Third, the wait is almost always unbearable -- but worth it. Fourth, multiple locations are okay, but not too many. Finally, a single meal should be relatively cheap. Less than 20 bucks per person is ideal.”

It’s not surprising that the list is big-city heavy… But while California accounts for a whopping 32 of the 100 (including 26 of the top 50), only three Texas restaurants make an appearance: Smitty’s in Lockhart (26), El Rey here in Houston (79), and Salt Lick BBQ outside of Austin (80).

While I’d like to rage against the pub for quashing Houston, I can’t actually think of many restaurants around town that meet their criteria. The thing about our fair city is that it really doesn’t have two or three of those restaurants that capture the precise amalgamation of taste, touch, and tenure as to be considered cultish. What we have instead is the luxury of so many great places that there’s not one or two that truly stick out as cult phenomenons.

That said, here are a few things that strike me as cultish from Houston:

1) Ninfa’s on Navigation. Poor Taste chose El Rey as Houston’s lone cult restaurant, but that place doesn’t fit the mold nearly as well as the original Ninfa’s. Yes, El Rey has a devoted customer base and the menu is somewhat unique, but the food is definitely not stellar. In fact, it’s actually dog food disguised as Cubo-Mexican. Or something like that. Only Ninfa’s inspires as much love from in-towners as it does from out-of-towners, has an often unbearable wait, and makes outlandish claims to be the original creator of the fajita. Perhaps most endemic to the list, they offer some of the best Tex-Mex around, including fantastic iterations of stuffed quail, Shrimp Diablo, and softshell crab. While the franchised versions imitate the original, they never come close to equaling it, which makes Mama Ninfa’s my cult favorite.

2) Bryan Caswell. Even before his run on The Next Iron Chef, Bryan Caswell had a semi-Koresh-like following around town. And it’s easy to see why: Each of his three restaurants (REEF, Stella Sola, and Little Big’s) is unique, offering fresh foods in interesting combinations that glorify the local and the seasonal. Even more interesting is that these places all managed to avoid the sophomore slump so common in the industry. True, the Little Bigs in Hermann Park closed recently, but the original location on Montrose still packs ‘em in. Don’t expect Caswell’s Midas Touch and rockstar status to plummet with his next venture, either -- a new take on Tex-Mex with Houston’s other favorite son, Robb Walsh.

3) The debate over the best burger. Houston’s Burger Battle happens often and happens crazy. Mmmmhmmm, it’s been known to incite the kind of feud that can resurrect wrestling or separate a family. Touchy stuff. Rumor even has it that the cult-like In-and-Out Burger chose Dallas over Houston for its first Texas location to avoid competing with the Bayou City’s proliferation of solid burgers: Hubcap, Sam’s Deli Diner, Tornado, Christian’s Tailgate, Becks Prime, etc, etc, etc, and it’s easy to see their point. As for me, I generally try to avoid the debate -- not because I don’t have a dog in the fight, but rather because I really don’t care. Too many awesome burger joints is a problem I’m happy to have. Let the debates rage on!

What do you think? What else is cult-like in Houston’s culinary pantheon?

Is Houston Ready for a Permanent Just8?

2010-09-13T12:22:00.008-05:00

About six weeks ago I had dinner at Houston’s first pop-up restaurant -- The Just August Project. It was an inspiring meal which showcased a range of interesting techniques and flavor combinations. My eyes were ablaze from start to finish, marveling at what was in front of me and wondering what came next. It is not a meal I would choose daily, but perhaps one I would look forward to each quarter.

(Pickled broccoli and dehydrated chorizo on a poached egg yolk at Just8)

I spent last week in San Francisco, where I had a similar experience at the more established Commis, thanks to recommendations from @tastybitz and @tetsujustin. Looking back at the exceptional meal, it’s no wonder that Just8 chef Justin Yu had recommend the place, as the parallels between the two experiences are clear. Both places offer jaw-dropping creations that play with textures and style. Both offered a range of meats and fish, including a raw course. Both played up the seasonal influences and featured a poached egg yolk. Both offer reasonably priced pre-fixe meals. And both provide an intimate setting (12 tables or so) with top-notch service that’s completely void of pretension. Commis is filled nightly in Oakland. Could the same type of place survive here in Houston?

(Fabulous fennel bulb soup with tomatoes and basil at Commis)

You tell me. At Commis, we started with a flavorful fennel bulb soup studded with tomatoes and basil. What followed was raw albacore tuna with scallion, pepper, lime peel… and gorgeous golden chunks of fried okra -- A little bit of the deep south all the way over on the Left Coast. Next came the wild hake with squash congee, clams, and spinach. The local abalone with liver sauce, potato, and seaweed was the only course I didn’t love -- The intensely fishy flavor overwhelmed. But that helped me save room for the next dish, a chicken that was first poached, and then roasted with salted butter and marjoram beneath the skin. For dessert? A compressed honeydew with blueberries and lemongrass “snow.”

(Wild hake with squash congee, clams, and spinach at Commis)

Dining experiences like Commis and the Just August Project are the culinary “someday,” connecting the aha’s in our minds and showing us what’s possible when creativity rules the flavor wheel. I walked out of both meals with the undeniable high that comes from enjoying exceptional food at a reasonable price exchange. And that’s exactly why I think a Commis or a Just8 *could* find a regular home in Houston... It would, of course, need to stay small to cut down on staff and overhead and offer a decent price for Houston's value-driven market. But these are the places we hold fast in our memories, and I want more.

(Poached-then-roasted chicken with marjoram and chanterelles at Commis)

Buttercream Frosting and Tiers of Joy

2010-08-03T21:23:00.014-05:00

“A cake, Franck, is made of flour and water. My first car didn’t cost this much.” -- George Banks, Father of the Bride

I’ve been to jabillions of weddings in my 33 years -- witnessed the nuptials, oogled the dresses, owned the dance floors, and raised many a glass. This Fall, I’m having a wedding of my very own. And this is the only time you’ll see me write about it :)

Planning a wedding is an interesting thing, glorified in recent years to the point of divine supernatural. Fourteen bridesmaids and Vera Wang in a million-dollar affair? It’s almost common enough to be considered passé. Even Miss Manners has come out recently to gently reprimand today’s bridezillas for creating a culture of monster weddings. I’m totally with her -- but I’ll also admit that it’s been fun losing myself in the details no one will notice. Each decision seems amplified by five, though deep down I know it really doesn’t matter what linens we choose, what sized tables we provide, or how many members are in our wedding party. And if I trip down the aisle? It’ll prolly go viral on YouTube. Eh.

Every bride, I think, has things on which she will not compromise -- whether it’s food, flowers, or formality. For me, it’s cakes... those outrageously dreamy, fairytale rounds of sweet, sweet sugar and buttercream. Wedding cakes are exquisite and artful; each is a metaphorical castle for the happy new couple to enjoy on their own and share with their friends. I just don’t understand those brides that serve cardboard. And that fondant stuff may be lovely, but it sure tastes like butt -- No, thank you. All this is to say that last night’s cake tasting appointment has been on my calendar for months. In Sharpie. With stars. Squeee!

As we walk in, it is immediately *obvious* that the cake lady’s storefront is heaven incarnate... A dizzying array of cake layers and frosting, glazed in pastels and studded with pearls. Natural light streams through the windows as I lose myself in a world of vintage cake toppers, acrylic stands, and delicate roses. Oh, to be surrounded by those five-tiered majesties again! I immediately calculate the pluses, minuses, and sheer probability of swapping my soul for a career in cake tasting, but the downsides seem numerous. [Sigh.] Perhaps I could just pay rent here instead. We pour through scores of pictures showcasing the baker’s skill (Shapes! Textures! Plain and ornate!) and taste enough flavors to make ourselves ill. We savored every corner, analyzed every crumb, and picked apart each frosting.

In the end, the decision was surprisingly simple. Just like our wedding, itself. We tasted white cake, Italian cream, butter cake, and two chocolates. But almond cake filled with dulce de leche? I do -- happily ever after.

Cultural Cuisine: Le Hotdog

2010-07-05T22:54:00.003-05:00

One reason we all love to travel is checking out the fused combination of foods inspired by the various local populations. It’s hilarious that the Kentucky Fried Chicken in Tokyo serves popcorn chicken sushi, for example, and Argentina is known for its European-evolved pastries. In Lima, you’ll find chifa, the local fusion of Chinese and Peruvian foods, thanks to a substantial Asian population. The combinations are astounding and -- oftentimes -- outstanding.

A few weeks ago I visited Vancouver and was surprised to discover that Canada has one of the largest Japanese populations outside of Japan -- which means that Canada also has some pretty kickin’ sushi. But perhaps more interesting than the upmarket food is the local favorite hot dog stand, Japadog.

Japadog takes an originally German food that has migrated to America, and then adds a Japanese spin. Um, how’s that? Simple: The meats and buns are the ballpark standards, but the gaggle of toppings offer interesting Asian-style flavors, textures, and combinations. Take Japadog’s most popular item, the Spicy Terimayo. It’s a spicy dawg topped with teriyaki sauce and dried seaweed, two standard Japanese ingredients. We also tried the delicious Oroshi, a brat covered with grated radish, green onion, and a thick soy sauce. Perhaps our favorite, though, was the Edamame Dog, a brat slice diagonally and stuffed with steamed edamame. Looking for ketchup, mustard, onion, and relish? No way -- Instead, Japadog offers teriyaki, wasabi, plum, and soy sauces.

Houston’s Hispanic population has evolved the standard hot dog into the spicy Mexican hot dog, and Vancouver’s Japanese population has developed its own cultural collision -- which begs the question of how many other populations have done likewise. Is there an Italian hot dog topped with marinara? An Ethiopian hot dog wrapped in injera? A Korean hotdog covered with kimchi?

As odd as it sounds, has the unassuming hotdog become a blank canvas for global cuisine?

Spotlighting the Locals

2010-06-28T15:11:00.008-05:00

Growing up in Houston we feasted on Luby’s, queso, and fast food, but these days you could truly host a dinner party made almost entirely of foods produced within a 100-mile radius of Houston. The number of farmers markets and local vendors in the Houston area has virtually exploded over the past decade as more and more chefs and patrons want to know both the source of the foods they purchase -- and the makers, themselves.

Below are some of the Local Spotlight posts I’ve written recently for Eating Our Words. These have quickly become my favorite posts to research and write, as each vendor has such a unique story to tell: Some joined the trade out of basic necessity, while others did it for personal satisfaction or consider it a family tradition. But regardless of roots, each vendor highlights the inherent joys of working in and serving the local community. They've become richly fulfilled... Now, if only that paid the bills.

These posts have also, ahemmmm, helped my eating habits, as I’ve tried to incorporate more and more local foods in my own diet. Feelin’ good!

Produce from Wood Duck Farm:
http://tinyurl.com/2epzedm

Poultry and meats from Jolie Vue:
http://tinyurl.com/27aeo74

Heritage meats from Revival:
http://tinyurl.com/24xeos4

Drinks from Katz Coffee:
http://tinyurl.com/2dwyazx

Olive oil from Texas Hill Country Olive Company:
http://tinyurl.com/2bszdvl

Eggs from Hattermann's Farm:
http://tinyurl.com/25pdvdh

Macarons from Maison Burdisso:
http://tinyurl.com/25uwure

Cheese from the Houston Dairymaids:
http://tinyurl.com/292cm3m

Cured meats from The Grateful Bread:
http://tinyurl.com/292cm3m

Gelato from Trentino:
http://tinyurl.com/292cm3m

Houston restaurants with gardens:
http://tinyurl.com/2e3l2m4

Got any suggestions for future spotlights? I’m all ears!

Do Busier Bees Make Better Honey?

2010-04-15T14:18:00.008-05:00

To say that life has been busy is like saying gravy tastes good, an understatement so comical that it was even difficult to type. With the school year hitting its home stretch, plus holidays, baseball games, weekend jaunts, out-of-town visitors, wedding planning, TAKS prep, food festivals, and more, I’ve had little time to engage in the one activity that simultaneously stimulates and calms me: Writing.

Well that’s only partially true. I have been writing twice-weekly posts for Eating Our Words, the Houston Press’s hodge-podge food blog. Regular food writing has proven to be fun. Since I only post twice a week, it hasn’t completely overwhelmed me -- but it has encouraged me to do/see/taste more and to hone my writing skillz. And because a few of you have complained that it’s harder to find my posts now, here are links to a few of my favorites. Just in case you’re interested.

Street Vendor Blues
A look at why Houston’s so slow to adopt the food truck movement
http://tinyurl.com/ylhke3y

Brennan’s Houston
A first taste of the venerable restaurant after its grand reopening
http://tinyurl.com/y852ksf

Road Food Rules
A glance at a recent trip to New Orleans for the Road Food Festival
http://tinyurl.com/yf5bbn5

Beloved Brenham
Great places to eat in Brenham, a TX town that’s close to my heart
http://tinyurl.com/y5qtuh3

Celestial Sandwiches
My 25 favorite sammiches in Houston
http://tinyurl.com/y3l26ht

Battle Falafel
A head-to-head taste test of two respected falafel places in town
http://tinyurl.com/y5fntw6

NOLA by Committee

2010-04-11T14:06:00.006-05:00

There are a lot of *awesome* reasons to go to New Orleans with a group of friends, but one of the biggest upsides is that with a lot of people, comes a lot of food. Two weekends ago, six of us shared, sampled, and savored our way through menus around town, barely stopping to give thanks for the amazing weather. Here are some sneak peeks of our favorite meals.

STANLEY
Stanley offers a fabulous brunch menu in a gorgeous space filled with natural light, right on a serene corner of Jackson Square. And while the phrase “comfort food with a twist” has become quite the cliché, dishes like Bananas Foster French Toast and Softshell Crab Eggs Benedict certainly have not. We loved how Stanley put its own New Orleans stamp on every menu item.

JOHNNY’S
The six of us gobbled our way through the po’ boys around town, and I can now say with certainty that the fried shrimp po’ boy at Johnny’s is my all-time favorite. This thing is simply outstanding, a prize winner among golden standards: pillowy bread with the lightest of crunch topped with just-golden shrimp, fresh veggies, and a simple, prolonged dash of Crystal hot sauce.

COCHON BUTCHER
Cochon Butcher is the fabulous meat market and casual restaurant from the folks at Cochon. Sitting pretty on a quiet street in the Warehouse District, Butcher provided the ideal Sunday lunch spot. We arrived early, shortly after they opened, and had the place to ourselves -- but by the time we left, the place was jam-packed with hungry diners. Among the highlights were things like lamb sausage and foie gras butter, but my two faves were the heavenly “boudinwich” and a gorgeous bowl of shrimp-n-grits.

Rounders: Livin’ Large at the Houston Rodeo

2010-03-06T16:40:00.005-06:00

Too much work and not enough play means this girl has a lot less time to exercise than I would like. While I used to roam the athletic fields, tracks, and gyms with speed, prowess, and agility, my spare time these days generally finds me at the computer. Or on the couch. Or deeply engaged in nap. That is, when I have spare time at all.

But 2010 is a new year, a big year. A round year in which I will get less round. I will rise from the couch to strengthen, tighten, and tone. I will make smoothies, veggies, and purees -- or healthy dinners like this one. My muscles will grow, my spare tire will shrink. Small children will fear me. And I can do it, too.

But then? I take my students to the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo and see dastardly attractions like this. Oh, holy hell.

Curiosity 1, Will Power 0. Was that deep-fried Snickers bar worth it? Prolly not, but it sure was fun, an indiscretion I can overcome. The bad news is there’s danger lurking around every corner at the rodeo, shark-like bucking broncos ready to pounce on unsuspecting patrons who lack the discipline to turn down lovers like fried cheesecake and a side of beef on a stick. Because then we found the Frito Pie stand. Ahhhh, Frito Pie. I haven’t had one of those since my youthful days on swim team, when we used to nosh on Frito Pie, Fun Dip, and Pixie Stix before totally rocking the 400-meter medley. Are they still as tasty as they once were? Absolutely. Curiosity 2, Will Power 0. [Sigh]

Yes, that’s a funnel cake in the background. And what. I hadn’t realized that this year’s event is sponsored by the devil: A few moments of ecstasy in exchange for an evening of regret. Thank you, Houston Rodeo, for limiting your your temptress delights to a mere two weeks per year. My glut and gut are in your debt.

A Piece of My Heart: Stella Sola

2010-02-06T10:00:00.010-06:00

Before I went there, I couldn’t wrap my head around Stella Sola’s concept. A Texany take on Tuscan food... Did that mean big-ass bowls of pasta? Topped with Velveeta? Refried beans? And passive-aggressive barbs delivered with sparkling manners? Sadly enough, I could prolly get behind that.

Turns out, Texas-Tuscan is a whole lotta awesome: Beautifully fresh black mussels steamed in Lone Star beer, captivating crudos of Gulf fish like sea bream and jack, tender braised short ribs on a bed of sautéed chard, and country style pork ribs topped with jalapeno pesto. In short, Texas-Tuscan is alluring combinations of local foods and Italian styles that complement each other so well, you’d swear they just occur that way in nature.

And those dishes up there? Aren’t even among the best reasons to try the place. Really, the must-tries are the house-cured meats and homemade pastas. Chef Justin Basye’s famed expertise with salumi is deservedly on display -- literally, in the form of the gorgeous rows of sausages and cured meats hanging just outside the main dining room, and figuratively, in the form of the menu’s incomparable charcuterie plate. Crisp bacon, spicy Polish sausage, paper-thin prosciutto, and creamy lardo... Each more exceptional than the last.

But the menu is truly anchored by an evolving list of delicate pastas. The calamarata pasta topped with gulf rock shrimp and fennel sausage is a keeper -- and though it sits on the appetizer menu, methinks it’s plenty big for a dinner portion. The pappardelle topped with Texas wild boar ragu sings, but not quite as much as the brown butter gnocchi with roasted mushrooms and arugula; this dish is actually less rich than it sounds and is always a table favorite. Even the spaghetti features a Texan flair... Break open the *colossal* meatballs, and you’ll find a gumball-sized hole filled with melted Fontina cheese. Not kidding.

My most recent meal at Stella Sola reminded me just how much I love the place. And it’s more than just the menu. Gone is the hotel-like decor of the space’s previous iteration. In its place you’ll find a down-to-Earth dining room dotted with knowledgeable servers. And nowhere is there a sense of pretension or entitlement. You get the idea that the guys in the kitchen have just as much fun making the food as you have eating it. And that’s why it rules.

The place gives me the warm fuzzies, holds a piece of my heart, and lights my fire. I choo-choo-choose you, Stella Sola. Will you be my valentine?

Stella Sola - 1001 Studewood in the Heights

Hubcap Grill: The Burger as Art

2010-01-18T09:53:00.008-06:00

I’m no burger expert. I prolly eat about five burgers a year -- or definitely fewer than ten. I just don’t crave them like so many of you ravenous beef hunters do. I mean, they’re good and all, but so’s macaroni and cheese. Sheesh.

Within minutes of opening, Hubcap Grill, the diminutive downtown burger joint, had a slew of supporters and longer lines than the MFAH on free day. It was everyone’s favorite new place, nearly universally loved. The patties! The toppings! The composition! But come ON -- It’s *just* a burger, I thought to myself, though was secretly intrigued by anyone that could artfully combine burger with Frito Pie. [chin scratch]

Wouldntcha know. This past Saturday morning I tweeted that I was looking forward to my first ever visit to Hubcap Grill, and immediately received a dozen responses, most of which explained that I had to get this burger or that burger, be sure to try the fries, and don’t forget to say hi to Ricky, the amiable owner. Inspired by the outpouring of Hubcap evangelism, my excitement grew as I silently hoped my expectations weren’t growing out of control. It’s *just* a burger, I privately reminded myself.

Turns out, these are not *just* burgers. They are meaty buns of art, the carnivorous form of Monet’s Water Lilies, a Picasso among impostors. I loved the bacon cheeseburger with its thin patty that creates the ideal ratio between grilled meat and chopped toppings. I loved the Philly Cheese Steak burger, crowned with thin-sliced ribeye steak and melted Swiss cheese. I loved the buns, lightly toasted to offer just the right crunch. And I loved the atmosphere, which melds families, yupsters, athletes, hipsters, youngsters, old folks, Americans and non, and people from all walks of life, all gnoshing content in close comfort. What a delicious palette.

My 2010 burger total just might double.

State of the City: 2010

2010-01-03T15:16:00.011-06:00

Remember when you were little how time seemed to stand still? And now that you’re older, it pretty much travels at mock speed. Yeah, um, who can we speak to about that?

Ten short years ago we sighed with relief as the millennium swooshed by without the trolls of technical and physiological misfires that were “destined” to occur, Houston was settling in under the guidance of our first African-American mayor, and FORTUNE magazine listed Enron as one of its “100 Best Companies to Work for.” Ten years later technology pervades our every move, we welcome our first openly gay mayor, and the mere mention of Enron inspires sadness and spite, some nine years after it imploded. We’ve certainly aged.

To say that the past decade brought massive changes to Houston’s culinary landscape would be fairly banal on my part. Lord, in the last year alone we added gems like Stella Sola, Vinoteca Poscol, Bodegas, Giacomo’s, Canopy, Branch Water Tavern, Ciao Bello, Yelapa, and Kata Robata, among dozens of others -- all in a down economy. Chefs have become mock celebrities around town, Twitter changed the way we communicate, and diners are more willing to try new foods and preparations... as long as there’s a juicy steak to fall back on.

If anything, The Oughts taught us that with passion, skill, and the right tutelage, anyone can succeed in Houston’s culinary landscape. Anyone -- that is -- except Robert Gadsby, who proved that the fourth requirement around town is humility. Hot damn, Texas proud!

And even Texas isn’t bass-ackwards all the time. Over the past decade, Ruggles Green and Haven gave us Houston’s first green-certified restaurants. Monica Pope worked tirelessly to advance the slow food movement. Feast taught us to savor every part, nose to tail. The Houston Chowhounds inspired camaraderie through foodie smackdowns, rockstar throwdowns, and general chowdowns. And chefs like Randy Rucker, Plinio Sandalio, and Jonathan Jones challenged our thinking with their creative, avant-guard styles.

Tilman Fertita became the Microsoft of Houston’s culinary world: An experienced veteran churning out mediocre products with little in the way of serious competition. Landry’s is the evil empire everyone loves to hate. But 2009 saw Bryan Caswell emerge as the gastronomic Google: Young, brash, and infinitely cool, slowly adding new venues and rising chefs to his culinary pantheon. (Is anyone else picturing a Fertita/Caswell knife fight a la Michael Jackson’s 1983 “Beat It” video?) Caswell will never reach Fertita’s status -- he’d never choose to sacrifice quality for quantity -- but he has become Houston’s new prodigal son. It will be interesting to see how his 2000-teens play out.

Right now, the city is sittin’ pretty like pocket aces. What will the next decade bring? I have no idea. But here’s to hoping that our metaphorical adolescence sees us capitalize on the upswing.

My 2010 wishlist:
-- More street food faster
-- Better food in schools
-- More midrange restaurants like Giacomo’s
-- Fewer, more comprehensive farmers markets
-- A rad grocery store in the Heights (please!!)
-- Reasonably priced organic/sustainable food
-- Meatloaf, corndogs, and banana pudding
-- And, of course, more candy necklaces

What’s on your New Year’s wishlist?

Best App Ever? Quite Possibly.

2009-12-17T15:19:00.004-06:00

My sister-in-law and her culinary Hercules of a mother win the award for Best Thing I Have Eaten at a Holiday Party this year. A coveted trophy, I know. Anyway, it’s Brie -- with dulce de leche. Great Jeebus! Why have we never thought of this before?! Simple, beautiful, and mind-blowingly delicious, this alluring app draws people in like a siren song on crack. For reals. Add it to the bar, buffet, or coffee table of your choosing to impress guests with your gastronomic genius. Party on, my friends!

Sweet Brie with Pecans
-- Slide a round of Brie onto a serving plate.
-- Spread a generous amount of dulce de leche evenly on top.
-- Garnish with toasted pecans in a fancy-schmancy pattern.
-- Serve at room temperature with the wafers of your choice.
-- Stand alongside your creation to accept the praise forthcoming.

What’s the best thing you’ve eaten at an event this year? As the holiday season prepares for its culminating events, perhaps someone will compile these goodies into a festive pantheon of savory and sweet delights and INVITE ME over to chow.

A Festivus miracle, indeed.

Branch Water Tavern

2009-11-29T10:10:00.013-06:00

I’ve been so *stupidly* busy lately that I haven’t even had time to tell you how much I’m enjoying the new Branch Water Tavern. This speakeasy-like restaurant (read: dimly-lit with a kick-ass bar) replaces the old Cue & Cushion on Shepherd near Feagan.

Replaces the Cue & Cushion -- Ha! I just like saying that.

Anyway, go there. It’s centrally located, yet far enough from Washington that the DBs haven’t discovered it. And when you do go, get the chicken fried oysters. I might have turned my nose up a touch when I read this on the menu, but the resulting dish is perfectly sinful. Rich, meaty oysters are lightly battered and chicken fried; they go down the hatch tasting a heckuva lot like buffalo wings, only a jabillion times better. Asdlkgjlsdkjg!

The charcuterie plate cannot compete with the betters around town and the mussels were overly fishy in a disjointed broth, but the remaining apps -- like prosciutto-arugula rolls and bacon-wrapped prawns under a poached egg -- are duly impressive.

The table favorite of the mains was the slow-cooked snapper, served with a flourish in a plastic bag that’s cut right open at your table. When the steam clears, you’ve got a mild and flaky fish, lightly flavored with complex Provencal herbs. Delicious. And ‘tis the season for Santa’s venison. The one at Branch Water is a tender delight -- beautifully cooked and with a sprinkle of salt in a huckleberry sauce -- but I wish it came with more of the lovely butternut squash and wintery Brussels sprouts served diminutively alongside.

In other news, you might have noticed that I’ve been writing for the food blog at The Houston Press. It's been fun and challenging, but means that I’ve been updating this bad boy much less frequently. I’m enjoying it, *except* for the fact that they don’t use the serial comma. I am semi-obsessed with the serial comma -- and quite loud about it, too -- but will attempt to reconcile my differences to promulgate a positive working relationship.

Place your bets, fools.

Adventuring Out: Dim Sum

2009-11-16T21:17:00.005-06:00

Foodventures with our YES Prep student have continued and are more popular than ever! I’ve actually switched to a World Literature curriculum this year -- not only because it’s closer to my heart, but also because it ties to well to introducing food in the classroom.

Laugh it up. I’m not joking.

This past Sunday we took nine confident and capable sophomores to try dim sum for the first time at Ocean Palace. Since we’re reading The Joy Luck Club in class, we’ve had a cultural amuse bouche, and several students were ready for a true main course. Excited were they to show up at school -- on a Sunday -- to meet up with their teachers for a trip to Houston’s Chinatown.

Upon arrival, we told them, “No sodas today!!” [with a fist shake] and they shrugged, “OK.” And then we told them, “You have to try everything!!” [with a fist shake] and they said, “No problem.” We were shocked at how easily they slipped on their adventure caps, trusting us to steer them right.

Our amazing Algebra II teacher is originally from Hong Kong, and giggles broke out when she spoke to our servers in Cantonese. Then, a quick lesson on chopsticks before digging in... Hi-YA! Dishes piled up under the watchful intrigue of the kiddos. They loved the shrimp dumplings, pork buns, and daikon radish cakes. They connected the spongy tripe to meaty menudo. They took turns filling each other’s cups of tea. They each tried a saucy chicken foot. And they fought over the last sugary coconut treat. 100% awesome.

Each student walked away just a little wiser in the ways of the world -- and I walked away contented by teenagers who show a genuine curiosity about our global community. It is a wonder to watch how food can teach, create, unite. The day turned out serene, fast, formidable, and exciting-to-the-max. If only all my school weeks could begin with such varied grace.

Deck the City

2009-11-10T14:14:00.003-06:00

It is *splendid* outside right now. Absolutely splendid.

Yes, the weather’s nice and the livin’s easy. So where do you dine to take advantage of this fleeting joy? The problem is, no matter how nice the temp gets, “outdoor dining” here often means you’re sitting in a glorified parking lot. Never fear, gentle eaters! Here are a few selections to take your mind off Concrete City. Next stop, Niceville.

If it’s a burger you seek, head to Beck’s Prime on Augusta for a two-hander and one of the best milkshakes in town. Get yer grub on while you cool your jets under the shade of Houston’s largest tree, a great-granddaddy live oak. Little Big’s provides another option, and if you sit with your back to Montrose, you can *just* make out the downtown skyline among the Phone Pole Wasteland.

The Black Lab on Montrose gives you the unique opportunity to sample Houston’s finest cheese soup while you play a lifesize game of chess on the hedged-in front patio. Or get your Tex-Mex fix under the lighted palms on the back patio at El Pueblito. [Sigh!]

For something a little nicer, try the aptly named Treehouse on the Discovery Green; it’s American food and cocktails galore, elevated high(ish) into the downtown skyline. A true Houston jackpot is the Backstreet Café. If the food there weren’t so darn good, I’d attribute its 20-year success to the legendary garden deck. Or grab a date and take a strip mall hiatus at the Daily Review or Tiny Boxwood’s, which offer serene garden havens where you can wine, dine, recline, and refine. Hoo-ahhhh.

There’s plenty of beauty to be found in Houston’s madness -- Bodegas in the Museum District, Petrol Station in Oak Forest, Giacomo’s in River Oaks. Just keep your eyes peeled and your mind open. Any outdoor treasures I missed?

Vegan Dining to the Max

2009-10-27T09:34:00.012-05:00

There are four reasons why I could never be vegan, and their names are Red Hawk, Milk in My Coffee, Butter, and Macaroni and Cheese... Pleased to meet you. I do, however, hold a healthy respect for anyone with willpower enough to strike these demonic joys from their lives. I couldn’t do it, for sanity’s sake, yet I envy their healthy digestion :)

I attended last night’s vegan dinner at Beaver’s to satisfy a long-standing curiosity. My concept of vegan foods had been the nasty-looking bulgur and oat cakes wrapped in plastic next to the cash register at coffee shops in San Francisco and Austin. Is that all there is to it? I was dying to see what some of Houston’s most celebrated chefs could do with the genre.

And I was not disappointed. I left the festively *rad* evening 100% stuffed and begging host Jonathan Jones to please have a similar dinner in the spring when we have entirely new crop of vegetables to choose from. Yup, my first meatless, cheese-free, all-vegan, no-butter experience was just that good. Here’s a rundown in case you’d like to satisfy your curiosity, too.

Amuse: Fantastically rich Forest mushroom shooter with soy; could have been my favorite dish... (David Coffman, Benjy’s)

1) Delicious Brussels sprouts with chestnut pesto (Monica Pope, t’afia)

2) A lightly-dressed Persimmon and radish salad, red Cerignola and green Castelvetrano olives, and arugula (Monica Pope, t’afia)

3) Creamy-without-cream roasted red pepper and garlic hummus with house-made crackers (Russell Kirkham, Beaver’s)

4) Fall-tastic pumpkin-cushaw squash and ginger risotto with smoked corn (Russell Kirkham, Beaver’s)

5) Heirloom grits cooked in corn juice (giving the dish an incredible enhanced flavor), corn ricotta, and salsify, and cooked in the style of bacon (Randy Rucker, Tenacity Supper Club)

Intermezzo: Carbonated grapes, orange ice, celery root soy bubbles (David Coffman, Benjy’s)

6) Another candidate for my favorite dish: Salt-cured smoked tofu, sloppy BBQ with wild mushrooms, crispy garlic, sweet potato vine (Jonathan Jones, Beaver’s)

7) Interpreted Fall colors of New England as described by Alison Cook: potato risotto under foam (Randy Rucker, Tenacity Supper Club)

8) Abalone mushroom “lasagna,” smoked turnip “cheese,” Texas eggplant bolognese; wins the award for most creative (Jonathan Jones, Beaver’s)

9) Savory with sweet: Roasted pear tart with mushroom iced tea (Plinio Sandalio, Textile)

10) Decadent sweet potato beignets (Plinio Sandalio, Textile)

11 and 12) Autumn cake with candied carrots and pistachio (not pictured) and an amazing I-don’t-miss-butter-at-all “Hostess Cupcake” with vegan buttercream (Jody Stevens, Jodycakes)

Loves Me Some Chicken and Waffles

2009-10-25T14:49:00.010-05:00

Without a doubt, chicken-and-waffles is one of the best inventions to come out of the 1800’s, right alongside the light bulb, the telephone, and industrialization. Seriously. More recently, this historically soulful concoction has found a little cubbyhole in my heart that I never knew existed. And while I generally don’t love mixing savory with sweet, I’ve developed a shameful lust for C-n-W that demands to be fed.

To that end, I’ve been making my way around town in hopes of locating the very best iteration. Fried Chicken? Awesome. Waffles? Awesome. Fried chicken and waffles together? Triple awesome.

It may sound obvious, but chicken-and-waffles is essentially two dishes cooked separately, then smashed together. What I’ve learned is that most restaurants place *great* emphasis on one half, while completely disregarding the other. For shame! Research below.

The Breakfast Klub
This place is firstly famous for its Wings and Waffles dish, and indeed the chefs here crank out batch after batch after batch, breakfast and lunch, Monday through Saturday. In terms of experience, no one beats these guys. As expected, the chicken here is 100% incredible, but they have *got* to do something about their chewy, reheated, Eggo-like waffles which do this dish a severe injustice.

Max’s Wine Dive
The Sunday brunch menu is where you’ll find Max’s Wing Cakes, an enormous plate of beautifully seasoned fried chicken waaaangs served over pancakes. Not surprisingly, the chicken here is great -- golden, spicy, and without grease oozing out everywhere. But the pancakes are just average. Also? They’re not waffles. And honestly? It seems semi-wrong to eat soul food in a wine bar. Just sayin’.

Dry Creek
Dry Creek’s brunch menu features crispy wings over Grandma’s Waffle. This was, by far, the best waffle of the lot -- airy, thick, and golden -- but the fried chicken was an overly-breaded salty pool of grease. Yikes! If we could only get the waffle peeps here to meet the chicken peeps at The Breakfast Klub, we’d be in Wings ‘n Waffle heaven. Only I don’t think that’s happening this century. Poochie.

Lola
This new Heights diner serves chicken-and-waffles all day. I went in with low expectations (Lola is new, after all), and was pleasantly surprised by the gold-medal goodness. The fruit-laden waffle is nicely crisp and the chicken is expertly breaded, then fried without a mess of excess grease. While the waffle, itself, is a bit chewy, this dish is great. Theo didn’t like his, but I truly enjoyed mine.

Sparkle’s
Sparkle’s hamburger joint has exactly the ambiance you seek for chicken-and-waffles. It’s a run-down shack on a run-down corner south of downtown. Perhaps my expectations were a little too high when I laid eyes on the place because I was severely disappointed with the food. The chicken was *beyond* salty and the waffle, tough. They are not afraid of the butter (as noted in the picture below), but even that godly substance couldn’t jack the love.

Despite their ups-and-downs, I’ve enjoyed most iterations of the dish, at least to some extent. However, I definitely haven’t found the golden standard. Any suggestions?

The Shame of Our Schools

2009-10-15T11:31:00.010-05:00

You might already know that I teach 10th grade English at a rigorous, low-income charter school called YES Prep. What you might not know is that more than 80% of our students qualify for free and reduced meals -- and what you almost assuredly do not know is what “free and reduced lunch” looks like.

Well, here you go. It looks like this.

Students qualify for free and reduced lunch, of course, because their families cannot always afford to pay for or provide regular meals. Oftentimes this lunch is the only meal of substance a child receives in a day. And when that “substance” consists of an off-color hot dog plus a few tarnished pieces of canned pineapple –- or about 350 calories total –- we’ve got a problem. It’s called Hollow-Eyed, Malaisical, I-Have-No-Energy-to-Pay-Attention disease. [Sigh.]

This problem is not new. Plenty of people are loud about the fact that school lunches absolutely blow. Chef Ann Cooper, the Renegade Lunch Lady, is one of them. A few weeks ago, Cooper came to town to tout the School Lunch Revolution, an idea she successfully implemented in Berkeley, CA. This plan seeks to make lunches healthier and more substantial, yet still tasty: Whole wheat crust and veggies on pizza, roasted potatoes instead of French fries, baked chicken instead of mystery meat. In short, her idea looks like this meal, sponsored by Whole Foods and served to us at the info session.

Chef Cooper has even put some numbers behind her idea: She says that 25% of our country’s healthcare spend goes to obesity/diabetes (that’s $260 billion of $1 trillion). And her solution is simple: We currently spent $8.5 billion on school lunches, and we need to up that number to... $14 billion.

I’m sorry, what?

It’s a great idea in theory: We can pay for better, healthier food now, or we can pay even more for fancy-pants healthcare treatments later. And where do we get all this unaccounted-for money? Easy, she says -- We need $1 more per student per day, so quit funding money-suck initiatives like Cash for Clunkers and the Iraq War.

The simplicity is *almost* refreshing -- yet also completely infuriating.

There’s no one out there that’s opposed to serving healthier, more substantial lunches in schools. But the question remains: If you had $5 billion to spend on education, would you put it towards food?

Consider the alternative.

Pumpkins at Canino's...

2009-10-13T16:51:00.005-05:00

Are just .25/pound! And man, are they gorgeous.

Every time I go to Canino’s I kick myself for not going more often.

Ciao Bello

2009-10-11T11:28:00.006-05:00

Tony Vallone hasn’t gone out of his way to promote his new restaurant, Ciao Bello, yet it’s near-packed early on a Wednesday night. Sheesh. Given the stature of the Vallone name around town, this is not a big shock. Also not surprising is that Ciao Bello is another gold star on his already dazzling resume.

Walking in you’ll notice that the place is a near replica of the restaurant’s previous iteration, complete with high ceilings, beautiful bar, and a window into the kitchen. It’s a nice enough space, but prepare to get a little cozy -- the dining room is so crammed with tables, so you’ll need to think thin if nature calls.

Once your food arrives, though, you’ll immediately forget about the vociferous neighbors only a forearm’s length away. The caprese salad is standard at best, so start with one of the more creative options... Like the antipasti, a gorgeous selection of stuffed mushrooms, roasted peppers, artichoke hearts, eggplant, salami, and more, each tastier than the last, perfect for sharing.

The much-touted osso bucco ravioli meets its delicious expectations. Tender, disintegrate-in-your-mouth strings of buttery osso bucco hide inside a glorious pasta pillowcase, topped with a rich and meaty sauce. Totally dreamy. The Chicken al Matonne, too, is a win -- a lemony poisson, seared, pressed flat, and cooked under a brick. Moist and satisfying from the first bite to the last.

Finally, save room for the Zeppole Zia Maria, warm, beignet-like doughnuts topped with powdered sugar and served with a side of pastry cream. These puppies top a crazy-enticing list of meal-enders.

Ciao Bello is touted as a casual Italian place. And that’s true in the sense that you can leave your tux at home. But when the median pasta costs $17, I’d say you’ve moved right on into the upscale. However, the food is outstanding and the service supreme. So as long as you don’t expect to get outta there for less than two or three Jacksons, you’ll come out seeing stars.

Ciao Bello - 5161 San Felipe (at Sage)

Lola in the Heights

2009-10-04T21:06:00.009-05:00

The Heights may be ablaze with a local arsonist, but one new restaurant has also sparked interest: Lola, the diner-style new offering from Ken Bridge of Dragon Bowl and Pink’s Pizza fame. Housed in a remodeled building at the corner of 11th and Yale, Lola meets the mid-range restaurant need for an area dominated by low-end taco shops and high-end eateries.

Upon entering, you’ll notice first that the interior of the building lacks cohesion. Like, really. A beautifully shellacked traditional wooden counter immediately draws the eye, which is then *blinded* by the surrounding fluorescent walls. When your head spins, you’ll be smacked by the industrial open metals of the front wall. It is as if Cyndi Lauper, Frank Lloyd Wright, and the father from “A Christmas Story” were unable to decide which style to use, so they compromised and each took a third. True, it’s a nice conversation piece, but it also left me wondering if the restaurant’s interior was actually completed.

The menu is similarly disjointed -- but it’s less noticeable. Breakfast items, served all day, are anchored by egg dishes (like the ubiquitous Huevos Rancheros) and a Chicken-n-Waffles plate that puts the Breakfast Klub to shame. The fruit-laden waffle is golden crisp and the chicken is expertly breaded, then fried without a mess of excess grease. The Day-After-Thanksgiving sammich falls way short, though; the turkey, stuffing, and flavorless gravy each miss the mark, leaving bites bland and mushy. But do not pass up the near-perfect French fries. Dinner items are a hodgepodge: salmon, meatloaf, and the like.

I’ve heard the gripes about the pricing, and indeed it is high for diner-style food. However, Lola is no greasy spoon. Chefs use quality ingredients and portions are huge. And it’s early, yet. I have no doubt that the menu and prices will improve with time.

In short, Lola will succeed because there are enough people that want it to. Ken Bridge has the experience and know-how to run a successful restaurant, and local Heights patrons are happy to have a novel and decently-priced addition in the ‘hood. So even though I’m not enamored of the place as is, it has the potential to become a regular stop. And that, my friends, is upside.

Lola - 1102 Yale (at 11th)

Houston's Fearless Critics

2009-09-30T19:22:00.007-05:00

Good news -- The updated version of Houston’s best restaurant guide hits the shelves tomorrow! That’s right: The Fearless Critic is back with even more outlandish, outrageous, and hilariously rad reviews. Since the last guide was published two years ago, Houston has gained and lost restaurants with only slightly more grace than a Hollywood starlet. Here’s your chance to find out which ones are worth the effort, and which are already on the road to the glue factory.

Houston was The Fearless Critic’s test market to create an undercover council of local food writers and bloggers, and I had the distinct honor to be included in the mix. We ranted and raved, argued and ate our way through just about every restaurant in town. And I do mean argued; at one point we jammed the WWW by throwing out 200+ emails per day, all in the name of declaring a best burger. Our spats resulted in a straight-forward, no-holds-barred, kick-in-the-pants restaurant guide that offers a “brutally honest” picture of Houston’s culinary landscape.

And yes, we did give one burger the coveted blue ribbon -- but I could never deprive you of the chance to devour this *exceptional* piece of contemporary literature by teeing up the answer on a little old blog. The only shortcut on the path to gastronomic excellence is to buy the book yourself. Sorry :)

Food in the News

2009-09-22T13:29:00.003-05:00

Just plain weird...
A North Carolina man -- who admits that he tends to gulp his food while eating -- suffered from unexplainable coughing fits, fatigue, and pneumonia-like symptoms for two years. Doctors finally locate the problem: A piece of a Wendy’s spork lodged in his lungs.

Closer to home...
Workers at Tampico Seafood on Airline in the Heights had a hell of a night last Friday when they were robbed at gunpoint and then held hostage once police arrived on the scene. Fortunately this one has a happy ending for everyone except the gunmen.

Most exciting of all...
Former Chez Panisse chef launches a line of ready-to-heat meals available at Costco. The line offers four dishes (polenta, penne bolognese, braised beef, and turkey meat loaf), all organic, no preservatives. The meals serve five, and none sells for more than $14. Just one more reason to luuurve Costco!

A Return to Luby's

2009-09-19T12:05:00.008-05:00

Man, did I love Luby’s when I was in high school. Didn’t everyone? And I used to get the same thing every time: fried okra, mashed potatoes, and macaroni-n-cheese. Sometimes jello. Last night I went back to this Lone Star staple for the first time in fourteen years. Turns out, a lot has changed...

Now that Luby’s is owned by the Pappas group, it’s a fancy-pants cafeteria with track lighting and upscale-ish food. Nearly everything is low on flavor and high-high-high on salt, and I found it -- dare I say it -- overpriced. This, my friends, is not the same place I see in my rose-colored memories. But even though their food and my taste buds have evolved over time, one thing at Luby’s is still as awesome as ever: the macaroni-n-cheese.

The Rise of the Casual Italian: Giacomo's

2009-09-17T09:00:00.007-05:00

The corner of Westheimer and Bammel has been a revolving door of restaurants over the past several years... Sausalito, Palazzo’s, Pan y Agua. All epic fails. Now the space is Giacomo’s, a casual Italian eatery offering hot and cold dishes and drinks at reasonable prices.

The once-dingy space has been converted into a light-filled sanctuary, sort of a modern 70’s look with its mint green tables and color splashed walls: There’s a bar for a pre-meal prosecco, a small outdoor area for when the weather allows, and an accommodating staff for all your questions and needs. But of course, the real draw is the food.

Take the minestrone soup, for example. It’s a clean and delicious combination, heavy on the carrots and kale, swimming in a complex vegetarian broth that’s made in house daily. And then there’s the orecchiette, ear-shaped pasta topped with broccoli rabe and lamb meatballs in a light, brothy sauce. The pasta, itself, is good, but the stand-out is the super-spiced waterfall of lamb meatballs which add just the right kick to the otherwise vanilla dish.

The real show-stealer, though, is the half-moon pasta filled with Swiss chard and goat cheese in a sage butter sauce. The handmade pasta packets have that exact texture we wish every noodle could emulate, and the creamy, flavorful filling provides just the right accompaniment. Simple, satisfying, dreamy.

So lovely was my experience that I placed a to-go order on my way out the door to use as my next day’s lunch (and dinner): four of the vegetable sides for $10. Cauliflower with hazelnuts and capers, beets with gorgeous chunks of goat cheese, crisp carrots in a vinaigrette, and a colorful array of roasted peppers -- all of it prepared from scratch daily. I was the envy of the lunch room.

Giacomo’s - 3215 Westheimer at Bammel Lane

Boudin Kolaches: Cajun-Czech Fusion?

2009-09-14T16:15:00.009-05:00

I’m all kinds of Friday-tired today. And it’s only Monday. So I’m going to make like it’s the weekend and drool over this boudin kolache from the Shipley Do-Nuts on North Main (near 45), available on Saturday and Sunday only. It’s a fluffy-warm bread pocket stuffed with a tender scoop of boudin that’s just the right mix of savory ‘n spice.

As I grabbed the last one on the shelf yesterday, I had to tip my hat to the culture collision in effect. On the one hand there’s the boudin, a quintessentially Cajun invention of pork sausage and rice. And yet it arrives in kolache, a deliciously Czechoslovakian vessel. The resulting package makes me believe in globalization. And long for the Olympics kinda. This bad boy will surely find a regular place in my dreams and my belly. Good thing I live nearby.

Thanks @sharonmoves for the rec!

Classroom Cuisine

2009-09-12T11:49:00.008-05:00

Last week my 10th grade English class at YES Prep started our Melting Pot Cookbook in which we’ll compile various recipes from our studies in World Literature. Since we started with Latin America, it was easy for my mostly Hispanic students to track down a family recipe and write an imagery-laden paragraph describing the dish. Yesterday they brought in several of the selections so we could triple-check that their writing measures up with their cooking -- and vice versa.

Well before school, students poured into my classroom to leave huge trays of homemade delicacies: enchiladas, tamales, caldo, quesadillas, empanadas, gorditas, pupusas, arroz con leche, churros, and chocoflan. Wow, holy heck, and goodness me. My students impress me [almost] daily, but this display was beyond belief.

One chica waltzed into class well into first period, a basket of empanadas slung over her wrist like Dorothy from the Wizard of Oz. She reported that her mother had started the meat at midnight, and that the two of them had risen at 4am to begin the assemblage. How could I give her a tardy when she brought us -- hands down -- the best empanadas I’ve ever tasted, hot out of the oven? With homemade hot sauce and a gorgeous writing selection to boot. [Swoon]

Pastes, I learned, are savory wheat pastries filled with meat and potatoes, native to the state of Hidalgo, Mexico. Another student gracefully wrote about her early childhood in Ixmiquilpan, where she and her mom stopped at a tiny pastes shop every Monday after buying groceries. She may be lightyears away from her home state now, but her family’s pastes recipe always gives her a warm and memory-filled taste of her far away youth.

From Gabriel and his caldo to Tamale Brenda to Jose and his first experience making gorditas with mom, each student had a story to gush. I only hope that they “get” the embedded memory, language, and cultural significance of food when we virtually travel to India during out next unit. Onward!

Original Carrabba's

2009-09-07T11:43:00.005-05:00

When Johnny and Damian Carrabba sold their string of Carrabba’s restaurants to the Outback Steakhouse group in 1995, they kept the original two locations (Kirby/Richmond and Woodway/Voss) in the family. And while the franchised versions have fallen into the dogfood abyss that are chains (blech!), the original two shops continue to turn out consistently great dishes on a daily basis.

Much like the *ONLY* Ninfa’s I go to is the original one on Navigation, the *ONLY* Carrabba’s I’ll go to is the flagship one on Kirby. Eh, you won’t find the sophistication of Da Marco or the creativity of Dolce Vita, but you will find classic Italian dishes, well prepared with beautiful sauces and pasta al dente.

Crab cakes are light and fresh, chicken dishes cooked just right. The pizza crust could use some work, but the fresh toppings and pure simplicity almost make up for it. Cappelletti -- ravioli-like pasta stuffed with chicken, ricotta, and spinach in a tomato cream sauce -- stole the show as the evening favorite. But the Pasta Weesie -- with mushrooms, scallions, and sautéed shrimp -- sings with flavor in a neck-and-neck, NASCAR-like race.

The original Carrabba’s isn’t anything mindblowing. Really, it’s not. But it is a fun night out with great food, nice service, and an upbeat atmosphere. So why the heck not?

Carrabba’s -- 3115 Kirby (near Richmond)

School Daze: Delicious Learning

2009-09-04T14:53:00.008-05:00

It seems like just yesterday I was thinking about allllll the tiiiiiiime I had on my hands to get things done this summer. Well that bubble burst when I started school again a month ago. [Gasp!] That’s right -- August 3rd, fools. Let’s check out how I did food wise:

-- Find the best soup dumplings in Houston – CHECK
-- Find the best pho in Houston – CHECK
-- Try a million taco places – CHECK, CHECK, and CHECK.
-- Grab a burger at Hubcap Grill – Curses. Never made it.

Somewhere in there I had a lot of fun. Also? I made the terrifying discovery that relish at Wrigley Field looks like fluorescent goo from someone’s stomach lining, a Harvey Keitel movie, or the farthest reaches of space. I wonder if it can eat through diamonds.

I’m still struggling to come up for air this school year, but am getting there. As always, I’m thinking of all the ways I can incorporate food into the classroom. Our first initiative, which started today, is creating a Melting Pot Cookbook with recipes from the various regions we study. Each student brings in a recipe and an associated paragraph designed to entice. Next week we’ll sample each dish after reading the paragraph to assess whether or not they used the right imagery to capture the recipe’s spirit. Mmmmm... Loquacious and delicious!

Due next week are the Latin American ones, so I’m hoping for all their double-secret family recipes for mole, posole, and empanadas. I’ll keep you posted. Arriba!

One Word: Joeychestnut

2009-09-02T18:37:00.005-05:00

So I hung out with Joey Chestnut on Friday in San Francisco. That’s right: hot-dog-scarfing, world-record-holding, small-child-frightening Joey Chestnut, currently ranked #1 by the IFOCE (International Federation of Competitive Eating, Inc). It was pretty awesome.

Our conversation went like this:
ME: How’dya get so good at eating?
JOEY CHESTNUT: I’m the youngest of four boys. Growing up, if you didn’t eat fast, you didn’t eat.
ME: Huh. Will you go eat that side of beef?
JOEY CHESTNUT: No.

It was a fascinating study in restraint. Anyway, really nice guy. And according to Wikipedia, in ten minutes, Joey Chestnut can eat:
- 45 pulled pork sandwiches
- 118 jalapeño poppers
- 68 hot dog with buns
- 130 Krystal hamburgers
- 231 pork gyoza

Daaaang. That’s efficient. It takes me, like, ten minutes to get through a yogurt. [Sigh]

It's the Pork Belly Throwdown, Fools!

2009-08-18T16:02:00.008-05:00

Homer: What?! Lisa, are you saying that you’re never going to eat any animal again? What about bacon?
Lisa: No.
Homer: Ham?
Lisa: No.
Homer: Pork chops?
Lisa: Dad! Those all come from the same animal.
Homer: Heh heh heh. Ooh, yeah, right, Lisa. A wonderful, maaaaagical animal... Heh heh heh.

Latent in Homer’s philosophically persevering words is the idea of an animal so miraculous that it provides us with a waterfall of pork-flavored sundries. The pinnacle, of course, is pork belly, the happiest pork product of all. [Dreamy sigh.]

As it turns out, pork belly is to a chef what Megan Fox is to a guy: Lusty delicious. So when Jenny mentioned a pork belly throwdown, chefs from the far reaches of the city (well, kinda) came scurrying to throw their hats into the proverbial ring. And the match was set.

Last night more than 100 of us gathered at Catalan to pork our way through a buffet of pig-product-n-beans. Kitchen camaraderie overflowed into the adoring crowd, creating an atmosphere of warmth contagious. And then Christmas came early for the intrepid panel of judges (one of whom claims to have had a hamburger beforehand), which made its way through the TWELVE pork belly dishes concepted and created by some of the city’s most inspiring chefs. The line-up included such all-stars as Cody Vasek (VOICE), Randy Evans (Haven), Randy Rucker (Rainbow Lodge), Jonathan Jones (Beaver’s Ice House), Manubu Horiuchi (Kata Robata), and Ryan Pera (The Grove), among others, all strutting their culinary stuff in a no-holds-barred, epic battle for burly greatness. Daaaaang!

When the smoke cleared, one contestant reigned supreme. First place went to VOICE’s sous chef, Cody Vasek, whose offering included sweet-and-sour pork and a mesmerizing “pork ’n bean” ice cream sandwich. Of note: Cody also won the fried chicken throwdown, so with this victory, he now officially owns the Htown Throwdown and can back up any verbal trash.

As one of the hovering beasts begging tastes off the ever-benevolent judges, my favorite offering was the pork belly torta from Randy Evans. This? Was a thing of beauty: a messy titan of a dish oozing with pork belly and fresh avocado on a pillowy bread vessel. Randy, if you can hear me, please put this on the menu at Haven. Please...?

Yes, sports fans, the Pork Belly Throwdown was a fun and hilarious event which showcased Houston’s amazing pool of culinary artists. Above all else remains the simple and indisputable sign of a successful food nerd event: it’s nearly 24 hours later, and I’m still full.

Shout out to my fellow mooching Chowhounds!

Houston’s Hidden Gems

2009-08-09T21:29:00.010-05:00

The thing I love about Houston is that there’s rock star food around every corner. And I’m not talking about the Catalans, DaMarcos, Textiles, and Reefs. I’m talkin’ tiny, hole-in-the-wall, mom ‘n pop, I-give-you-$10-and-you-give-me-change, delicioso restaurants that shock you to the core. I mean, come on -- we live in a city where the best tacos are handed to you through the window of a truck. Where people pay tolls for Chinese take-out. Where strip malls can house the city’s finest.

We are blessed to have some of the best ethnic restaurants in the country and too often we take them for granted. Few cities have the range of ethnic cuisines that we do, and even fewer represent them respectably. But Houston exalts the little guys hiding in every nook. Just don’t avert your eyes or you’ll miss them.

PHO FROM A TRAILER
Tucked into a nondescript block of Beamer well south of Hobby airport lies the Pho Binh trailer and the best soup in Houston. Double true. No, it’s not a truck. It’s a trailer: a temporary building with a weensy kitchen and two tiny rooms packed with tables. The gracious staff turns out bowl upon bowl filled with broth so pure you want to bathe in it. Meats like chicken, rare beef, and pork meatballs, are moist-tender-delicious, and the long, smooth noodles slip-slide down with the greatest of ease. It is, quite simply, perfection in a bowl. That said, be sure to get there early; they run out of this pho goodness each and every day.

GAS STATION TACOS
I snorted a little when my friend told me -- with a straight face -- that the Chevron station at the corner of Lawndale and Broadway had amazing tacos. She seemed fairly adamant about it, though, so I decided to play along. And in we walked. Right up to the taco stand encased in a gas station’s food mart. And I traded my skepticism for a plate of humility, for I what I received was fluffy eggs and sweet, smoky chorizo softly wrapped in warm housemade tortillas. Simply fantastic. So convinced was I that these tacos would suck that I didn’t even tote my camera. This picture was taken with another friend’s iPhone. Tee hee!

BBQ IN A SHOEBOX
Barbecue joints are to Houston what weeds are to my yard: prevalent. But Pierson’s is different. Located on a desolate strip of TC Jester, Pierson’s brightens up a converted house with a humble nod. Enter the miniscule, formica'd dining room, place your order at the counter, and grab a seat -- if you’re lucky -- at one of the three tables. Soon you will be rewarded with tender brisket and the best ribs in town, all served with a hearty, unassuming smile. Meats are well smoked: crisp-charred on the outside to protect a moist and juicy interior. Even the potato salad and slaw are deserving of fanfare. But seriously, if this brisket were a man, I’d marry it.

Kata Robata

2009-07-26T23:59:00.008-05:00

While Houston lacks not in sushi joints, it does suffer from a dearth of high-end Japanese restaurants. Thankfully Kata Robata has stepped in, offering its breathtaking Asian dishes in the revolving door of a restaurant space at the corner of Richmond and Kirby.

The chefs at Kata Robata play with flavors and textures to create a deliciously outstanding set of dishes that’s as appealing to the eyes as it is to the belly. Case in point: The uni and king crab spoons with black caviar have become the menu’s most popular offering, and with good reason. In a gorgeous presentation, tender and fresh crab lightly topped with the butteriest of uni marinates in a tangy sunomono broth. The caviar adds a savory bite, making the entire spoonful an Excalibur of a combination. Hot damn!

Anyone shocked that the foie gras is good? Didn’t think so. Sittin’ pretty atop a daikon radish, the velvety foie has an unexpected smokiness to it, and the juxtaposition of textures is incredible. Lobster ceviche is yet another excellent starter; the mango sauce brings out the sweetness of the lobster, avocado adds to the creamy texture, and a sprinkle of red onion adds the right amount of crunch.

Nigiri shines with complex flavors hidden in a simple shell. Glory goes, not only to the exceedingly fresh fish, but also to the impeccably cooked rice. Meatily-rich toro, soy-marinated tuna, hamachi with mint, Sweet shrimp with uni... each better, prettier, and more enticing than the last.

The regular menu at Kata Robata is, hands down, the most creatively diverse Japanese menu in town. But for a real treat, sit at the bar (weeknights only) and order your meal omakase. After setting a course load or price, the chef will choose what you eat, based on the best and freshest ingredients he has available.

In its short history, Kata Robata has already found a place among the top restaurants in the city. Go for a date, go for a splurge, go for a wonderfully delicious, custom-tailored symphony of a Japanese experience from some of the best sushi chefs around. Just go.

Kata Robata - 3600 Kirby (at Richmond)

Huynh for President!

2009-07-24T18:26:00.006-05:00

Good news, team -- I found my new favorite Vietnamese spot in the whole entire mother-freakin’ world! Relatively speaking, of course. It’s Huynh, a remarkable lil’ place brightening up a strip center on St. Emanuel, caddy corner to Warehouse Live. As you enter, don’t let the modern decor fool you into thinking it’s a poser. Quite the contrary, my friends. Huynh is as authentic as it gets, and full-on fantastic.

As is often the case, I was shamelessly enamored of the appetizers. The crispy summer rolls wrapped in lettuce are a dream. And the duck salad, too, is to die for: pieces of tender duck atop a bed of shredded lettuce, shrouded with a thin, tangy sauce. But the real highlight is the dish #5... Slick little spring rolls that slip-slide down with the greatest of ease, a fascinating study in the interleague play of various textures. Inside you’ll find crispy chargrilled pork paired with a flavorific combination of mint, cilantro, and lettuce, all wrapped loosely in thick, chewy noodles.

The Bun Bo Hue, a vermicelli soup with pork, beef, and lemongrass, is decent -- be sure that it arrives warm enough. Sautéed tofu in a sweet-chili sauce was yet another highlight, as was the tender chargrilled beef sittin’ pretty on a lettuce throne.

Dish after dish after dish, I fell more and more in love with the simple preparations and clean flavors. Who’s a happy little eater?! This girl!

Huynh - 912 St. Emanuel

Taco Tuesday: Bodegas

2009-07-21T09:31:00.008-05:00

There’s no worse way to end an enjoyable morning at a world-renowned museum than by clouding it with crappy, artless food -- which is exactly what Houstonians have been forced to do for so many years. Despite the presence of 15+ respected attractions, the Museum District has traditionally been a black hole of culinary decency. Until now. Enter Bodegas Taco Shop.

Tucked into a nondescript office building at Binz and Caroline sits the newest taco shop to grace our fair city. If you’ve been to any other taco/burrito joint in town, you know the drill: Choose your vessel (burrito, tacos, nachos, tostada), add your protein (rotisserie chicken, fajita steak, ground sirloin, carnitas, or veggies), and then stock it up with any number of the 30 toppings, sauces, and salsas.

Be sure to show up hungry. Hulking nacho bowls will feed an army of angst-filled teenagers, fresh from the latest IMAX at the HMNS. Art-gawkers will love the symmetry of the fish tacos, not to mention the outstanding coleslaw on top. There’s a full kids menu for any post Children’s Museum meltdowns. And Rothko Chapel fans will probably head straight to the bar. Not that I blame them -- the margaritas are dazzling. Stick with the on-the-rocks classic, though. Made simply with tequila, fresh lime juice, and agave nectar, these puppies are among the best in town. Avoid the sticky-sweet fruit margaritas -- they’re just the regular ones with added powder flavoring.

Bodegas truly gets it right on every aspect, except one. And it’s a big one. Meats are high quality, moist, and fresh, but have little flavor of their own. We’ve all heard the gripes about over salting, but come on. Give it a sprinkle! Oh, they try to hide the seasoning dearth with snappy lettuce, juicy tomato, and some addictively fantastic salsas, but it’s there. Watching, waiting, begging to be remedied. Carnitas, chicken, fajita steak, fish... All the same.

Despite its lack of signage, limited parking, and saltless meats, Bodegas provides a satisfying lunch in an area of town with museums a plenty, but limited culinary reach. I hope this one -- like so many others -- is not a traveling exhibit.

Bodegas Taco Shop – 1200 Binz (at Caroline)

Hank’s Ice Cream

2009-07-16T17:50:00.005-05:00

Well before the deluge of commercial manufacturers, ice cream was an extravagance, made in small batches through an achingly slow, labor-intensive process. Today, ice cream is king. Little kids long for it, summer virtually belongs to it, and other desserts are even sauced with it. But where can you go to avoid the corporate mongers and find the ice cream of your youth? Simple: Hank’s.

A Houston institution for 20+ years, Hank’s has always produced ice cream the old-fashioned way: slowly, by hand, using fresh ingredients. The bright and humble parlor showcases eighteen delicious flavors each day, rotating from a list of nearly 100. Devotees swear by the butter pecan -- but really, you can’t go wrong with any flavor. I love the dulce de leche, cake batter, and chocolate chip. Beyonce always gets banana pudding :)

Bluebell is good, yes. But Hank’s is a true ice cream experience: An intensely creamy, achingly rich, addictively tasty dessert served with a side of nostalgia.

Hank’s Ice Cream - 9291 S. Main (near Reliant Stadium)

Yup, that’s Hank on the right!

Channeling My Internal Pollyanna

2009-07-13T11:25:00.007-05:00

I’ve been moderately quiet lately. And here’s why: I haven’t had anything that makes me run to the keyboard with delight. Nothing that inspires comparisons. Not a morsel to sing about. I’ve lost my muse! [Rehhhh-Rerrrrrrr.] Among the mediocrity, though, a few things stand out. And here they are...

Sautéed squid at t’afia
While I haven’t been overwhelmed by t’afia in recent visits, the summer squid sauté is a dream: massive tubes and tentacles with an enchantingly chewy consistency, topped with a spicy chili sauce. Light and airy, deliciously hot. This? Is how squid should be. The avocado sashimi also tickled the buds.

Waffles ‘n wings at The Breakfast Klub
Excited was I to dine at this Houston institution with some close friends Friday morning. We scraped in just before the massive line appeared, which seemed like a serendipitous start. But the bubble burst as soon as our food showed up. Yikes! The Wings-n-Waffles dish is great—especially the “wings” part—but the remaining offerings there... not so much.

Salmon tartar at Gravitas
Now that Scott Tycer is fully committed to his latest upstart, Textile, his old haunt Gravitas has lost its punch. The menu sounds enticing enough, but the preparations, themselves, have no soul. What’s a hungry diner to do? I'll tell you: Stick with something easy. Like the salmon tartar, mounds of fresh salmon flanked by chopped cucumber and dressed lightly with a chili-soy sauce. Hard to beat.

Raw mackerel at Nippon
A friend and I dined at Nippon’s sushi bar omakase last week. The chef was clearly hesitant to break outside the boundaries of rolls and nigiri, until we chastised him into giving us this: a gorgeous presentation of raw mackerel lightly drizzled with lemon and soy, then topped with smattering of green onions and sesame seeds. Once we downed the lightly sweet cubes of fish, he whisked away the filet, deep fried it, and then returned it to us. Paper thin and golden, it had the consistency of a cracker and the taste of a dream.

Don’t worry. The dearth of culinary inspirations has not deterred me at all, fearless readers. It just means I’ll have to look harder. Onward!

Taco Tuesday: La Jalisciense

2009-07-07T10:50:00.005-05:00

In a colorful freestanding building on Yale in the Heights sits Taqueria La Jalisciense. The windows are jam-packed with bright writing announcing the delicacies you’ll find inside: Homemade tortillas! Tasty menudo! Chicharrones and tripe! Breakfast starts early here and is served all day long, always a good thing in my book. When we got there around noon, the place was crowded, but not packed.

La Jaliscience is a true taqueria complete with salsa verde that will have smoke pouring from your ears, carrots soaked in jalapeno juice, and a beautiful selection of agua frescas. Tacos arrive in the authentic Mexican format topped simply with onion and cilantro.

The restaurant’s shining star is the deliciously picante housemade red salsa, which can hide many sins. Fill up on it. Or throw it on a breakfast taco to take advantage of the restaurant’s one true calling.

But the fun ends there... La Jalisciense, you see, starts at a disadvantage. Tortillas -- the foundation of any good taqueria -- are brittle and taste of grease. Add to that flavorless meat (lengua and tripe, I’m lookin’ at you), and you’ve got a meal that’s hard to salvage. Shrimp tacos are a safe bet, though still uninspiring.

Ay ay ay.

La Jaliscience - 1307 Yale Street at 13th in the Heights

Taco Tuesday: La Michoacana

2009-06-30T19:22:00.006-05:00

How many times have you passed a Michoacana and wondered exactly what’s inside? You’ve seen the signs -- I know you have -- so here’s a brief explanation for anyone curious.

La Michoacana has quietly dominated Houston’s Hispanic grocery scene since 1986 and now boasts 50+ locations around town. The layout of each location is roughly the same: A small market full of Hispanic produce and brands, a large and insanely well stocked meat counter in the back, and a small in-store taqueria up front.

When you go, browse through shelf upon shelf of salsas, spices, and chilies, then take a minute to gawk at the serious abundance of cow and pig parts hanging in the rear. Welcome to Meatopia -- What’s your dream? When you’ve had enough, make your way back to the front for some grub. You’ll need to pay for your tacos before ordering; do this at the cash register, where they’ll likely have to ask around for a translator if you don’t have a basic knowledge of Spanish.

The steam table has winners and losers for sure. The lengua at every location I’ve been to is packed with flavor -- soft pillows of meaty goodness topped with diced onion and cilantro -- yet the barbacoa is often stringy, tough, and bland. Similarly, the chicharrones are soft and marvelously delicate, yet the chicken lacks any discernable flavor.

La Michoacana is a fun, Houston-centric experience that’s dirt cheap and will [likely] take you out of your comfort zone. And even if your tacos aren’t the bestest ever, a few of the lightly sweet, fantastically awesome pineapple empanadas can make up for anything. Enjoy!

2nd Annual BBQ Smackdown

2009-06-28T12:32:00.018-05:00

Yippee-aye-kay-yay, yesterday was the 2nd annual Houston Chowhound BBQ Smackdown, a hard-nosed, meat-a-rific, head-to-head blind tasting to crown a new Houston-area ‘Q King.

This year’s line-up was intense, people. We pitted the top three finishers from last year’s hard-fought battle (Burns, Pierson & Co, and Luling City Market) against three new entries: Vincek’s, Thelma’s, and Virgie’s. Lest you forget, three of these contestants -- Burns, Virgie’s, and Vincek’s -- hold distinguished spots on Texas Monthly’s 2008 list of the top 50 BBQ joints in Texas, and all are local favorites. No gimmes, no obvious duds. Just pure, unadulterated meaty love.

Diners tasted brisket and ribs from all six venues, rating each on a 1-5 scale in categories like smoke, tenderness, flavor, moistness, and seasoning. Faces around the crowded room scrunched up in thought as voters wrestled with meat hierarchies, flavor ranks, and the dreaded full stomach demon. Many *burps* later, votes were tallied, and the winners announced...

Brisket:
1. Pierson & Co.
2. Virgie’s
3. Vincek’s

Ribs:
1. Virgie’s
2. Pierson & Co
3. Vincek’s

My personal fave in both categories was Pierson’s. The ribs had a distinctly charred outside protecting a moist and juicy, well smoked interior. The tender brisket was lean, beautifully spiced, and absolutely delicious. Luling City Market and Burns, both in last year’s top three, did not place this year. And Thelma’s, recently resurrected after a bad fire, took dead last in each category.

This is a fun and hilarious event, a jovial gathering of meat loving folks joined in a common goal: to find the BBQ best -- and smackdown the rest. While drinking beer. Be sure to get involved in next year’s event -- but you gotta join the Houston Chowhounds first!

Fu Fu Café

2009-06-25T00:18:00.008-05:00

I used to be one of those people whose eyes glazed over when someone mentioned Beltway 8. I mean, pfffft -- Isn’t that in another time zone? Across the International Date Line? Just to the west of Mars? And guess what: Calling it the Sam Houston Tollway doesn’t make things any better. Geez.

Happily, I’m no longer in that category. Recent trips outside the loop (OTL) for hot pot, dim sum, and crawfish have opened my eyes to the grab bag of goodness out yonder. Additionally, these trips have taught me that “out yonder” isn’t actually that far. Heh.

My latest trip was to Fu Fu Café, a small spot on Bellaire in Houston’s Chinatown. The Houston Chowhounds have been abuzz with love for this place, so my friend Dorothy and I went in with a laundry list of possibilities -- And thank goodness, since the menu is a jabillion pages long. Yikes! Here’s where we ended up...

The beef noodle soup arrived steamy hot with generous portions of tender meat and bok choy. The broth, itself, is excellent, and the interior spaghetti-like noodles are thick and hearty. Try and try again, I couldn’t tear myself away from this dish and its simple appeal.

Green onion pancakes were tasty, though uninspiring, but the myriad dumplings are something special. The long, thin pan-fried wigglers are crispy on one side and chewy on the other, a nice paradox of textures to crown the flavor. And the soup dumplings (which masquerade as “steamed pork buns” on the menu) are even more impressive: soft, warm pockets filled with spicy pork and steaming, salty broth. Both versions are beautifully delicious.

Fu Fu Café has some of the best Chinese food around in terms of authenticity and value. Portions are generous and service is OK.

Yes, Virginia, there is life outside the loop. Hizzah!

Fu Fu Café - 9889 Bellaire Blvd (near Beltway 8)

Taco Tuesday: Fiesta Loma Linda

2009-06-23T13:56:00.012-05:00

Let’s test your Houston heritage... Do you remember the Loma Lindas? According to Jay Francis, the Loma Linda chain was a Houston institution in the 60’s and 70’s. The oil bust of the 1980’s sent the family-run business into a tailspin, forcing it to close. Soon after, a friend of the original owner took it upon himself to preserve the tradition, reopening the Fiesta Loma Linda on Telephone Road, which still serves up tacos, enchiladas, and nostalgia today.

A visit to this homey little place is a trip back through time. Servers in traditional Mexican attire provide excellent service in a quiet, uncluttered locale. Remember when you were a kid and you used to get those old-fashioned puffy tortillas covered with chile con queso? That’s precisely what you get with a Loma Linda taco: Handmade tortillas brushed lightly with oil and “puffed up” in the skillet, then topped with tender meats, fresh lettuce, and juicy tomato. Add the spicy homemade salsa, and dig in. I prefer the fresh picked chicken over the ground beef (your only two options with the puffy tacos), though both are moist and meaty.

Loma Linda is straight Tex-Mex. And while I prefer my tacos in the Mexican steam-table style of meat, onion, and cilantro only, this is certainly a fun place to try and has much to offer in terms of food, service, and legacy. They do serve some of the best breakfast tacos in town, and the lunch and dinner menus are quite extensive as well.

Fiesta Loma Linda - 2111 Telephone Road (near I-45)

Sandwiches at Carter & Cooley

2009-06-17T12:41:00.004-05:00

Can you believe I had never been to Carter & Cooley before @SheEats met me for lunch there last week? For shame! This endearing little deli has been a Houston spectacular for twenty years.

Why? The outgoing staff claims that they craft every sandwich “as though it were the only sandwich we were going to make,” and methinks it shows. Sandwiches are large, packed with fresh-sliced meat and accoutrements, and served on thick slices of soft bread. They may be a little pricey (~$7.95), but each comes with a mound of gorgeous potato salad… Soups, too, are delicious and made in house daily. And on top of the good eats, ya get good seats, in the loveliest of historic buildings on 19th Street in the Heights. Dreamy.

Carter & Cooley – 375 W. 19th (at Ashland)

Tasti D-Lite in Houston: Fact or Fiction?

2009-06-16T13:52:00.004-05:00

Tasti D-Lite, to me, has always seemed like some fanciful, fictitious hideaway which I generally placed in the same category as Neverland, Narnia, Toontown, and Fiji... Places I float off to in my mind during stressful times. Like last week when I took an earful after my puppy pooped in someone’s yard. Eeee!

Turns out Tasti D-Lite is as real as this Gulf Coast heat. You already know the name from character obsessions on NYC-centric shows like Seinfeld and Sex & the City, and now Space City has our very own! A bubbly, colorful little shop at the corner of Post Oak and San Felipe.

Tasti D-Lite serves up close to a jabillion flavors of low-calorie frozen yogurt each day. They feature vanilla, chocolate, and four others as daily standards, but can whip up from scratch any flavor from the list of 100+ as soon as you say the word. Today’s treats included Rocky Road, Tapioca Pudding, and Chocolate Raspberry Truffle, while other days might include things like Coffee Cake, Pistachio, Brownie Batter, and German Chocolate Cake.

On top of the standard cups-n-cones, Tasti D-Lite also makes gorgeous frozen yogurt cakes in house and will start its breakfast fare (parfaits, muffins, and the like) next week. Considering I nearly fainted into a power nap walking between my backdoor and car yesterday, it’s a safe bet that I’ll throw some bidness their way. Look for the Highland Village location to open on August 15.

Tasti D-Lite – 1707 Post Oak Blvd. at San Felipe

Taco Tuesday: Chilosos

2009-06-16T09:43:00.005-05:00

Sometimes it’s just nice to go to someone’s home for lunch, and that’s precisely what you get with Chilosos, a small steam-table Mexican joint brightening up a converted house in the Heights. Two sisters own and run the bustling operation, governing the place with a welcoming, comfortable warmth. Inside you’ll find two colorful rooms full of high-top tables and stools, a few TVs, and lots of people. The covered outdoor patio, too, is chock full when the weather allows.

Place your order at the steam table, where you can choose from dozens of meat preparations. The menu is neither elaborate nor complex, but the kitchen staff turns out orders with efficiency and flair. Tacos vary in price from $1.75 to $1.95 and arrive in simple fashion with meat and tortilla only. While critics may scream about paying an additional fifty cents for cheese, lettuce, or tomato, the plain truth is that these tacos do perfectly well on their own.

Tortillas are thick and sturdy with an excellent consistency; watch as they make them from scratch on the front counter as you order. If chicken’s your thang, try pollo a la Mexicana in your tacos. It’s tender roasted and topped with a slight bit of spicy red sauce. Even better is the pork, small chunks of white meat encased in a thick, mild green salsa. Ready for some hootin’? The housemade salsas on the tables are deliciously flavorful and muy picante.

Chilosos tacos are the real deal, señor. But should you feel like straying from what is clearly their bread and butter, the handmade pork tamales are a worthy option. Truly a taste of Mexico, these bad boys have all the flavor and none of the grease. No salsa required.

After working out the kinks that go along with any new restaurant, Chilosos has become a casually delicious option for breakfast and lunch, six days a week. Both nicer and tastier than your standard steam-table, it’s a casual sit-down spot where you can enjoy good food and good service, while also giving your wallet a nice break.

Chilosos – 701 E. 20th (at Studewood)

Lobster Rolls Galore

2009-06-12T16:03:00.009-05:00

Greetings! Here I am, back from a glorious week-long jaunt to lovely New England, where I took it upon myself to sample as much of the local cuisine as possible. That’s right: lobster rolls. Anywhere and everywhere I could. It was a no-holds-barred, butter-riffic, wicked-awesome, antebellum, Yankees-suck Lobster Roll Challenge, if you will. What-what?!

New England, of course, is lobster obsessed -- and with good reason. So abundant is this subaquatic gem that I can recall few menus over the week that didn’t include it somewhere. We’ve got tacos, steak, and refried beans; they’ve got lobster, clams, and mussels. Go figure.

And the rolls are something special indeed: tender, sweet, opulent meat is lightly dressed and mounded into a split-top bun. High on flavor, low on mess. So simple, yet so delicious. Of the five we sampled, here are our three faves. And fyi, the pictures do *not* do them justice. Lo siento -- I was hungry!

NEPTUNE OYSTER -- Boston, Massachusetts
A friend recommended Neptune as her #1, and we happened to pass it on our self-guided tour of the North End. Hmmm, a 45-minute wait... Can you make one to go? Of course! What we got was a grilled-till-golden brioche bun packed with oceanic booty. Huge pieces of ruby-colored goodness protruded with authority. Add a little bit o’ mayo and a dash of lemon, and this one was gone in 60 seconds.

THE CLAM SHACK -- Kennebunkport, Maine
Locals warned us not to miss this classic, and we’re sure glad we listened. The Clam Shack, which is both as divey and as cute as it sounds, uses an entire lobster in each roll -- two claws, two knuckles, and a tail. Not sliced, not diced, not chopped. Just piled high onto a gorgeous homemade bun. While a slight spread of mayo or butter gives it a little kick, this one is the epitome of simple goodness.

PORTLAND LOBSTER COMPANY -- Portland, Maine
Right on the harbor in the Old Port, Portland Lobster Co. uses meat that’s picked fresh from Maine lobsters each morning. Sling it into a toasted split-top hot dog roll, add a slight drizzle of clarified butter and a sheet of romaine lettuce, and you’re good to go. This one also comes with a small side of coleslaw, which I gratefully added to my roll. You can take the girl outta Texas, but... Well, you know.

Haven’t had a lobster roll? For shame! @imneverfull recently loved the one at Houston’s own Rainbow Lodge, but suggests we avoid the canned version at Grum Bar. Or if you’re looking for a challenge, try whipping up this summer staple at home.

Softshell Crab at Ninfa’s on Navigation

2009-06-02T09:20:00.008-05:00

What’s there to love about softshell crab? Maybe it’s the satisfying crunch you get when biting through the hot-n-spicy batter in search of the deliciously meaty inside. Or perhaps it’s the bestial simplicity of eating the whole damn thing, shell and all.

Or it’s both, and I couldn’t be happier that they’re fixtures around town again. My friends @houston_foodie and @viva_victoria have been raving about the softshell crab at Ninfa’s on Navigation, and I finally made it over for a taste. This version is a gorgeous golden brown, fully fried and sitting on a tangy bed of jicama-cucumber slaw. Break into the beast to find the freshest of crab inside. Lightly fishy, lightly spicy, and wonderfully crunchy. Ninfa’s receives just ten softshell crabs per day, so be sure to ask upon arrival.

We’re well into softshell season, which typically runs from May through August or so, so get crackin’. Recent stories have left me skurrrr’d to even attempt this one at home -- and why would I when there are so many great options around town? The tempura softshell at REEF is downright outstanding, as is the cornmeal softshell dinner at Tony Mandola’s. Or swing by Jazzie Café for Houston’s best softshell po’ boy.

Barbacoa at Pico’s Bakery

2009-05-27T11:29:00.004-05:00

I have become absolutely fascinated with barbacoa this year and the shocking amount of variety one can find in the various meats, methods, and spices. A seemingly simple substance comes diversely alive when slow cooked with assorted chilies and flavors, each version different from the last.

The barbacoa at Pico’s Bakery is quite simple, yet could go head to head with any middleweight meat in town. The meat simmers in a reddish-orange achiote marinade until it is achingly tender and rich with spice, shreds of sunset-colored goodness ready to sink into your taste buds at will. Wrap it in a warm tortilla just off the grill, top with onion and fresh cilantro, and you’ve got the ideal lunch: one that leaves you questioning the square footage of your tummy. Yum!

Pico’s Bakery (the new offering from chef Arnaldo Richards of Pico’s Mex-Mex Cocina) is open breakfast, lunch, and dinner, seven days a week. The breakfast tacos are outstanding, as are the tortas at lunch. The meats -- barbacoa and chilorio, et al -- are the real deal, as clean and fresh as sunshine, itself. And don’t miss the fair trade Katz coffee created especially for Pico’s.

Pico’s Bakery - 5710 Bellaire Blvd (near Chimney Rock)

Crawfish at The Boiling Crab

2009-05-26T12:37:00.009-05:00

Memorial Day is made for crawfish, and there’s no better place to get them than The Boiling Crab. So off we went last night in search of Cajun splendor. Right there on Beltway 8. Who knew.

As we pulled up, crowds overflowed from the tiny indoor waiting area to the sidewalk outside, and a forty-five minute wait greeted us from the hostess stand. Sigh. Fortune was smiling on us, though, because our name was called in a mere five. It’s a Memorial Day miracle!

Inside, sturdy wood tables are blanketed with butcher paper, an early indicator of the mess to come. The diminutive space is filled with kitschy nautical relics, and the mostly Asian staff scurries about, quickly catering to the diverse crowd. No sooner had we placed our order, in fact, did it show up: 2 pounds of crawfish, 3 blue crabs, sausage, corn, and potatoes, all cooked medium spicy with a cherry on top. Fine, no cherry, but we did get “the whole she-bang,” a fierce combination of the three house seasonings: Ragin’ Cajun, lemon-pepper, and garlic butter.

We ripped and tore our way through the whole lot, scavenging for meat and taking care not to touch our crying eyes with spicy fingers. All in all, the crawfish and crabs were outstanding. At $5.99/pound, they're not the cheapest offerings in town, but they’re fresh and huge, well spiced, and served red hot. Check out the carnage below!

The Boiling Crab - 8300 W Sam Houston Pkwy S (at Beechnut)

New York Food Shorts

2009-05-18T14:18:00.007-05:00

This past weekend found me in a New York state of mind. And a New York state of body. Though it wasn’t *quite* as gluttonous as the trip to New Orleans, it was close. Here are a few favorite dishes.

Crispy Pork and Watermelon Salad at Fatty Crab
This? Was the best thing I ate all weekend. For reals, yo: Crispy chunks of fried pork belly sitting perilously atop vibrant cubes of watermelon, all tossed with scallions and a lovely splash of ginger dressing. The various textures, temperatures, and consistencies held a torrid threesome in my mouth that both made me a little shy [blush] and left me sorry that I agreed to share [curses]. Thank you, funky, outgoing, bespectacle’d server, for this stunning recommendation.

Pork sausage with Rice Cakes at Momofuku Ssäm
Ssäm Bar is the casual leg of David Chang’s restaurant trifecta. The diminutive space consists primarily of long, communal tables, giving the trendy space an oddly rustic feel. Our group’s favorite dish was easily the spicy pork sausage with rice cakes, served with Chinese broccoli and crispy shallots. Shazam! The gnocchi-style rice cakes perfectly balanced the meaty-and-heaty spice in the sausage, and the strangely texturific combinations were a welcome surprise.

Lobster Roll at Mary’s Fish Camp
We ordered Mary’s lobster roll at the suggestion of a friend, and thank goodness. Placed happily before us was a generous helping of lobster salad on a gorgeous, super-soft, buttery yum of a toasted hot dog roll. The uber-fresh lobster exploded with flavor, enveloped by just the right amount of mayonnaise and lemon. This thing immediately found a spot on my daily agenda for the weekend… until we scornfully discovered that “Market Price” actually meant $30. Grumble, grumble. Still worth it –- but just this once.

Sausage and Mushroom Pie at Grimaldi’s Pizzeria
We got to the original Grimaldi’s in Brooklyn around 6:15, hoping to beat the dinner rush. No dice. The line spanned the block. And we waited. And waited. And went for coffee. And waited some more. And finally took a seat more than an hour later. What we received in exchange for our time was a traditionally awesome New York pizza: thin, coal-charred crust topped with standard ingredients and smooth Mozzarella. And while I wasn’t blown away with the flavor, I was enamored of the pie’s sheer simplicity.

The famous Shack Burger at Shake Shack
We were a bit deterred by the line of 100+ snaking around the park, but two girls near the front swore that it moved quickly. Turns out they are lying liars because we waited an hour plus just to get an order in. Mere moments afterward, though, our annoyed patience was rewarded with the juiciest of Shack Burgers. Made with high quality meat, fresh vegetables, and secret sauce (which is oddly reminiscent of the one at In-n-Out) this burger is the real deal. Our only problem was that it seemed way too small for our needs.

Cupcakes from Magnolia Bakery
A mandatory stop on all my New York itineraries, Magnolia Bakery is as busy as ever, even despite the numerous cupcakeries that have matured in its shadows. Despite their abundance, though, I still like to top my meals with an original delight. And while the icing seems to have lost a step, the cake remains the golden standard: ever beautiful, ever buttery, ever pristine.

Michelada Me, Baby.

2009-05-14T09:37:00.007-05:00

A recent Twitter conversation left me craving a michelada, another of Mexico’s great gifts to the culinary marketplace. There are, oh, upteen jabillion ways to make one of these tangy, tasty beverages, but the basic formula is [Mexican beer + clamato] salt-rimmed glass = delicious. From there, you can add lime juice, Worcestershire, or hot sauce. And don’t forget the ice!

Thanks to a recommendation from Plinio Sandalio, I squelched my desire with this limey, tall, Tecate-flavored bad boy from the Taqueria Arandas on Shepherd. Now that’s a lotta michelada...

I hear the michelada at Ninfa’s on Nav is not to be missed. And I love the one at Connie’s Seafood on Spencer Highway as well. The time (and weather) is right, my friends... Arriba!

Adventuring Out: Thai

2009-05-11T21:40:00.004-05:00

Last week was our final Ethnic Night with the YES Prep sophomores. After previous trips to get Indian, Vietnamese, Greek, and Cajun food, Thursday found us at a Thai restaurant near campus. We took eleven students with us -- all experienced brancher-outers, ready to learn a new cuisine in the best way possible: family style, suckas!

Spring rolls set the tone for the evening, leaving everyone enamored of the flavorific peanut sauce. Then, oddly and interestingly enough, most students chose to skip the Pad Thai in favor of more authentic dishes like Pad Se Ew, Duck Curry, and Tom Yum. They were fascinated by the glutinous consistency of the thick rice noodles, the sweet heat in the brothy soup, and the new range of foreign spices in every single dish.

As always, the kiddos loved trying the various different drinks and desserts. Thai iced tea and Thai sodas were a huge hit, as were the fried ice cream and mango sticky rice. Mmmm, my fave!

All in all, Foodventure nights were a raging success. Nearly fifty different students joined us for at least one dinner. Three students joined us for all five. And twenty or so made it to at least three ethnic evenings. Ask them which was their favorite, and you’ll get a range of adamant answers and supporting evidence. Perhaps the biggest indicator of success, though, is the reaction of the junior class: “That’s not fair -- we didn’t get to do that last year!”

Well, sorry about that.

Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen

2009-05-06T15:35:00.005-05:00

Busting out of a strip mall on Woodway, Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen embodies the curtsy and flair of a Texican hacienda. Sylvia, herself, roams the place, checking on tables as her enormous turquoise earrings sway delicately along with her non-stop motion. She is the center of this colorful universe, mimicking the flavors of her youth in the Rio Grande Valley.

Start out, of course, with a margarita, limey and fresh. Avoid the bland tortilla soup, and instead try the plateful of fresh guacamole. Sylvia’s version is served with piles of diced tomatoes, onion, and jalapenos on the side so you can flavor it up to each person’s liking.

One would expect an “enchilada kitchen” to rule at enchiladas. But these are just so-so. Meats are fresh and well seasoned, but the sauce is where the dishes fall short. Portions are reasonable, though, rather than the hulking beasts you find at other joints around town, and not slathered with cheese. On the other side of the plate, pay close attention to your pile of rice lest it disappear at the hands of your dining partner... Jay Francis tells us that Sylvia actually employs an arrocero (read: rice guy) who is responsible for nothing other than making the rice, a lovely version of the traditional Mexican standard.

Looking past the enchiladas, fish tacos are a consistently solid choice: grilled or fried strips of tilapia stuffed into delicious housemade corn tortillas. What really sings, though, is anything made on the mesquite grill -- like beef fajitas, shrimp, and tilapia. Items arrive well cooked with a nice smoky flavor alongside a spicy set of poblano rajas in a creamy cheese sauce.

Sylvia’s is a bright and casual moderately-priced neighborhood joint, good for a night out with family or friends. It’s worth a stop if it’s on your regular route, but no need to go out of your way.

Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen - 6401 Woodway

Weekend Food Shorts

2009-05-03T11:37:00.009-05:00

1) I never forget how much I love farmers markets, but I sometimes forget about the exceedingly happy, wonderfully relaxed feeling of Zen I get while sipping my coffee among the vendors and fresh produce. Saturday morning found me at the Midtown Farmers Market, where I indulged in an open-faced breakfast sandwich with all my favorites: Rosemary flatbread topped with garlic spread, a thick layer of eggs, gorgeous smoked salmon, shreds of lettuce, and grilled sweet onions. Dfkhgskghsdfkgh! That’s how good it was.

2) Later that day I ran into Jay Francis, food explorer, at Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen on Woodway. Jay cradled a bottle of his storied homemade Rompope with care, and we were fortunate enough to beg a taste. Upon hearing about the mixture of milk, egg yolks, sugar, vanilla, and rum, I immediately assumed it would taste like eggnog, which I do like (read: loathe). But what I tasted in the Rompope was a deliciously creamy, lightly sweet custard of a drink. It was divine.

(Photo courtesy of Rompope King Jay Francis)

3) There are few places I enjoy more than La Guadalupana for breakfast. Crammed into a dilapidated triangle next to a Laundromat and corner store, the place was ravished by Hurricane Ike in 2008; the owners had no insurance, leaving patrons with a sick feeling that this Little Engine that Could just wouldn’t survive. Rightness has prevailed, though, and the storied joint reopened its doors only a few months after closing them. Insert huge sigh of relief. Owner Trancito Diaz was once a pastry chef at the Houston Country Club, so you know the breakfast sandwich -- a spicy omelet served in a flaky homemade croissant -- rules. What a great way to start the new week!

Recent Photo Favorites

2009-04-30T16:01:00.009-05:00

Tempests and flooding and flu, oh my! Don’t let the current state of outbreak hysteria get you down. After all, like a motherly hug after a skinned knee, there’s always food. Oh, that sweet, sweet savior.

Here are a few untheme’d recent faves. Enjoy!

House-cured meats at Vinoteca Poscol

JJ’s sweet cornbread at Beaver’s

Why can’t this be contagious?

Custard-filled pastries at a food stall in SF

A blur of Irish Coffees at the Buena Vista

Torta con barbacoa at Taqueria del Sol

Barbecue Inn

2009-04-28T19:37:00.004-05:00

Hold onto your cholesterol as you step into the Barbecue Inn and warp through time all the way back to 1946. That’s how little this place has changed since the year it opened, and they’ve got the original menu on the wall to prove it.

So. What do you order at a place called the Barbecue Inn? Certainly not the barbecue. No joke. While the brisket and ribs are decent, you can find better in this meat-obsessed cow town. There are brighter sides to the menu. Salads are standard fare made with iceberg lettuce, but the dressings are made fresh from scratch in house. Honey mustard, Ranch, Blue Cheese, Thousand Island... Each one tastier (and creamier) than the last.

But homemade salad dressing does not longevity make. What keeps this underdog afloat? Simple: The Barbecue Inn has -- hands down -- the best fried shrimp in town. Fresh, jumbo shrimp nicely battered and deep fried, served with homemade tartar sauce. Fried chicken, too, is one for the record books, served piping hot alongside gloriously crispy French fries and a leaf of kale posing as a vegetable. And don’t forget the third element in the trinity: chicken fried steak. This one sits pretty under a blanket of cream gravy. Man, if only Elvis were alive to see this place.

Despite its shortcomings, the Barbecue Inn has been a family favorite for years. So much so that you can expect a line at peak weekday hours. Final verdict? Your heart wouldn’t survive a weekly visit here, but it’s certainly worthy of an annual pilgrimage.

Barbecue Inn - 116 W Crosstimbers (at Yale)

Little Tokyo Sushi

2009-04-27T10:19:00.006-05:00

Last week I got my sushi groove on at Little Tokyo in Pearland. Among the 300+ rolls on the menu were the delicious Mango Roll (below, center) and a Cajun Roll made with spicy softshell crawfish. Mmmm, mmmm good. Each roll was massive and beautifully presented, and while I’m not a fan of adding bunches of oddball ingredients, this place has something for even the most finicky of Picky Patties. A tasty evening indeed.

I am still prowling for the best and most perfectestest sushi place in Houston, though. I can’t seem to wrap my heart (or my loyalty) around any of them. Thoughts?

Little Tokyo - 8201 W. Broadway (in Pearland)

Vinoteca Poscol

2009-04-22T20:45:00.007-05:00

The venerable Marco Wiles (of Da Marco and Dolce Vita fame) expands his repertoire with newcomer Poscol, a casual wine bar serving small plates and pastas, cheeses, and house-cured salumi. The space that once held the Montrose Café is airy and fresh, welcoming, and decidedly unfussy. Hooray!

Not surprisingly, the menu features unique combinations, preparations, and Italian libations. Fried spaghetti, for example, offers an interesting texture and wonderful flavor, especially when topped with the tremendously awesome, semi-sweet, chunky delight of a tomato sauce served alongside.

The favorite of the night was the valpolicella risotto made with chicken, beef, and veal stocks. We scraped up every bite of this creamy goodness and considered ordering more. A close second was the beet and chickpea salad en papillote. The soft, fresh beets paired perfectly with the crispy chickpeas, and the warmed goat cheese was almost like a sauce. Skip the bruschette, but do try the distinctive Italian sandwiches -- like the one we tried with asparagus and egg.

I won’t claim to know a whole ton about Italian wines. OK, fine, I know next to nothing about them. But the selection is nice. Or if soda’s more your style, you’ve got your choice of RC Cola, Diet Rite, Squirt, and Big Red. For reals!

What’s not to like about this fun and fresh new place? Not much. I filled my belly with a nice amount of delicious vitals and a glass of prosecco, and was out the door in $25. Jackpot!

Vinoteca Poscol - 1609 Westheimer (at Mandell)

Chez Panisse's Non-Glory

2009-04-21T15:22:00.006-05:00

Houston Foodie just posted the list of the Global 50 Best Restaurants, which jogged a memory about my most recent meal at Chez Panisse. This, for you newbies, is Alice Waters’ formidable restaurant and café in Berkeley, just east of San Francisco, and receives nearly constant attention as the original home of the local food movement.

Chez Panisse offers almost no choice in the menu. Waters and her staff design one fixed-price menu for the week, and that’s what they serve. You may select the vegetarian or pescatarian options, but there are no substitutions otherwise. Waters bases her courses on seasonal foods, relying almost entirely on fresh, local ingredients, rather than on technique. This is a great idea. In theory.

When I lived in San Francisco, I dined at Chez Panisse thrice, each time enjoying my meal immensely. I visited again this past March and had the complete opposite reaction. My gripe? The menu seemed fine in writing, but turned out flat in taste. Check it.

Course One: Tempura fried squid, calamari, and oysters. Sounds like something I might order regularly, so what’s the problem? It’s that I don’t go to Chez Panisse for fried seafood. Really, I don’t. So while this dish was very much OK, there were no fireworks. Like, at all.

Course Two: Vegetable soup. I love soups -- especially brothy ones -- and I loooove vegetables, but this one lacked flavor. Even *I* can figure out what’s in season, steam it, and add it to a bowl of flavored water. Hmmm. Still waiting to be impressed...

Course Three: Pork loin. What can go wrong here?! It’s PORK LOIN for Pete’s sake. Truth be told, this was the best dish of the evening, yet lacked a punch. Telling me that the meat is grass-fed, local, and organic can’t hide that it’s also cold and gristly.

Course Four: Apple turnover. Meh. But sure was pretty :)

Previous Chez Panisse experiences notwithstanding, this one left me flat angry. I’m all for fresh, local, and seasonal -- but not for plain and boring. Again, I’m glad you grew the vegetables in your own garden, but that’s not a silver lining when they don’t taste good. Monica Pope is an Alice Waters disciple, and she manages to embody the same philosophy without leaving her patrons hungry. Perhaps the student has become the teacher.

And this, my friends, is why I was surprised to see Chez Panisse occupying the 59th spot on the list.

A little long-winded for me, no?

Raindrop Chocolates

2009-04-18T21:15:00.010-05:00

Raindrop Chocolates is such a happy place. Indeed, your spirits rise just walking into the well-lit store. But nothing compares to the elation you feel upon biting into one of the decadent desserts.

Truffles are bite-sized bits of heaven in flavors like salted caramel, malt, sweet curry, lavender, chipotle tequila, and a variety of fruits. But don’t overlook the gelato, dense and creamy in flavors like fig, coconut, dark chocolate blood orange, almond, and tiramisu. And everything -- truffles, gelatos, cakes, and other chocolate-covered treats -- is handmade in house from the finest ingredients. It is true, unadulterated, concrete bliss.

But wanna know something sad? Raindrop Chocolates is closing on April 26. You’ll want to stop in beforehand.

Raindrop Chocolates - 810 Waugh (near W. Dallas)

Adventuring Out: Crawfish!

2009-04-16T12:17:00.007-05:00

It’s back! After a long hiatus which included Spring Break and a week-long visit to several colleges around the South, Foodventure Nights are on the docket once again. We’ve already dabbled in Indian, Vietnamese, and Greek, so last night we wrangled 15 students down to Floyd’s Cajun for crawfish, gumbo, and etouffee.

Floyd’s features a Happy Hour special of 5 pounds of crawfish for $3.95/pound, and despite early hesitations, most students found the courage to share some mudbugs with their buddies. Our math teacher and resident crawfish expert offered a step-by-step tutorial on how to twist-n-peel the little guys, and then let the kiddos have at it.

The scene was hilariously fun. Students loved the eclectic process and strange new spices, and were -- of course -- shocked by the minute amount of meat that accompanies such gruesome work.

After the crawfish samplers, we moved on to massive plates of Cajun classics. Creamy jambalaya with Andouille sausage was a definite hit, as was the seafood gumbo and anything fried. We ate to our limits, and nearly everyone went home with a doggy bag.

The entire evening was a fantastic success, but I find myself with one lingering question: What kind of teacher encourages her students to suck the head? Please, YES Prep, don’t fire me.

Mid-Range Lovin': Where Do You Go for $25?

2009-04-15T14:08:00.012-05:00

Congratulations to our fair city, now basking in the national spotlight for our kickin’ food scene! It’s truly fantastic to see others heap praise on Bryan Caswell (who was just named to Food & Wine’s list of best new chefs), on Feast (which received a stellar write-up in the New York Times), and on Textile, VOICE, REEF, and Feast for their spots on Travel + Leisure’s list of the 50 Best New Restaurants.

Indeed we get much recognition for our awesome-n-expensive... and plenty of accolades for our awesome-n-cheap. But where, prey tell, are the awesome in-betweeners? Are they lost in the shuffle -- or do they not exist at all?

What I’m looking for is a simple, nice night out with friends for about $25. I could do well for $15 or $50, but that elusive mid-range is where we fall short, methinks. I *love* Backstreet Café, Shade, and Café Rabelais, but always end up spending well more than intended. Am I looking for value in all the wrong places?

Here are five faves...

Dolce Vita – No surprise here. Dolce Vita cranks out amazing apps and some of the best pizza around. And while they only take reservations for parties of 6+, the cozy bar offers decent people watching, as well as a nice selection of reasonably priced wines. The prosciutto pizza is a long-standing favorite, as are the amazing green beans (fagiolini).

Seco’s – This place is a bit of a paradox. It’s an upscale Mexican joint with crazy-fresh ingredients, yet the price is beyond reasonable. Truly it’s the restaurant trifecta: great food, great space, great service. Spinach enchiladas are epic, and the fish dishes are outstanding as well. Actually, I dare you to find something you don’t like.

Shandy’s – This tiny café on Memorial at Westcott serves terrific sandwiches, soups, burgers, and salads with absolutely zero pretense. Menu items are homemade with fresh ingredients and served up by Shandy, herself. When you go, be sure to note the amazingness of her arms. Also, fyi, there’s a small wine list, and I’d like to re-nominate Shandy’s BLT as the best in the city.

Oporto – I both love and hate the small plates concept, but they work well at this semi-swanky wine bar. One-and-a-half or two tapas and a glass of wine does the trick here, all for about $25. The Oportobella (a marinated portobello baked with a spinach and artichoke gratin) is fantastic, as are the piquillo peppers. Oh small plates, why must you taunt me so?

Tiny Boxwood’s -- Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Thompson + Hansen’s beautiful café achieves an enviable mix of comfort and style. Beautiful simplicity reigns when it comes to both food and setting, but not price (why does simplicity always cost so much?). Anyway, I luuurve the Pizza Bianca, and the turkey/avocado club on sourdough ranks high, too.

Your turn! What are your favorite mid-range spots?

Dinner at Catalan

2009-04-12T20:20:00.003-05:00

Year upon year Catalan lives up to its reputation as one of the best restaurants in the city. And not surprisingly. The good people at the upscale bistro have not only captured a winning formula, they also make it look easy. Servers, chefs, and sommelier slide gracefully around the low-lit room, maintaining their equanimity despite a packed house and crowded kitchen. Truly this is beautiful food in a beautiful space. But it’s also exceedingly loud. You’d be wise to ask for a table around the perimeter.

At Catalan it’s all about technique. As far as appetizers go, you won’t want to miss the roasted pork belly topped with a pure cane syrup; this dish will have your mouth singing in sugary seconds. The fresh and crispy crabmeat croquettes are certainly worth a try. Even the “redneck” mac and cheese, in its creamy splendor, could find a spot on the best dressed list.

While the entrees aren’t always perfectly executed, they don’t ever miss by much. The crabmeat crusted grouper ruled the table, beautifully prepared in that melt-in-your-mouth kind of way, although the adjoining Israeli couscous offered too many flavors at once. The local triggerfish (which gets top billing by the chef, himself) arrived lukewarm and lacking the expected fireworks.

There’s even a section of the menu for all you “Houston radicals.” It’s called the Chef’s Playground, so named because it contains a handful of the chef’s most rambunctious and inspired dishes, like barbecued head-on shrimp and housemade corned beef. P.S. you can add foie gras to anything; it says so right on the menu.

Not like I need to tell you, but don’t skip dessert. The peanut butter bread pudding is a perfect end to a near perfect evening.

Catalan - 5555 Washington (at TC Jester)

Po' Boys at Jazzie Cafe

2009-04-09T09:03:00.007-05:00

Sometimes you just need a good po’ boy, and despite Houston’s proximity to New Orleans, that’s not always the easiest thing to do here. Enter Jazzie’s.

This flamboyant shack on 19th Ave west of Durham makes one of the best po’ boys in town. Started by two Katrina transplants and later sold to the current owners, the place stays true to its N’Awlins roots with pillowy bread, fresh meats, and plentiful toppings. You can’t go wrong with the shrimp version, which is so packed with the little guys you have to shove ‘em back in there. But the oyster is my personal fave; it arrives piping hot and teeming with perfectly breaded, lightly fried critters just begging for a splash of hot sauce.

Jazzie’s is tiny with little indoor seating; they’ve recently added a covered outdoor area with 4 picnic tables, though, where you can take in colorful views of the surrounding auto parts facilities. Or you can order your sandwich to go. Either way, service is hilariously awesome.

Avoid the boudin balls. Seriously. But go for a po’ boy.

Jazzie Café -- 1221 W. 19th Avenue

A Perfect Week for the Grove

2009-04-08T13:51:00.000-05:00

Two weeks of blissful weather. That’s all we get a year, and it’s right now. ‘Tis the season, then, for The Grove, one of three restaurants on the new Discovery Green downtown.

Encased in a beautiful glass-and-steel space, The Grove embodies the simple elegance required of an entity that fills so many needs... It’s the kind of place you hit before a Rockets game, on your way to the Alley, or with a date. Got a free afternoon? Sit on the shaded wooden deck for a snack while you marvel at a vibrant outdoor display unlike anywhere else in Houston. You won’t regret it.

Lunch offers a little more consistency than dinner, yet both menus feature interesting flavors at OK prices. Of the appetizers, the deviled yard eggs with chorizo arrive in a gorgeous presentation, yet lack the flavor punch you expect. Moist rotisserie chicken adds an extra umpf to an already nice Caesar salad. Last Sunday’s tomato and chorizo soup was dynamite as well.

A closet hit is the grilled cheese sandwich off the double-secret kids menu. Seek it out. And the clear favorite is the shrimp burger with spicy avocado mayonnaise and fennel slaw; served with crispy fries, this beauty tops an already outstanding sandwich list.

When you’re done, head upstairs to the Treehouse (open Thursday through Saturday) for a creative cocktail while you bask in the shadows of the skyline. Or grab a few made-to-order doughnuts from the stand across the way. They’re hot, they’re fresh, and they’re little pillows of heaven.

Is this the most amazing meal you’ll have downtown? No, but it’s fun, fanciful, and consistently fine. Plus, you can feel good knowing you’re patronizing an eco-friendly venue in Houston’s prettiest new locale.

The Grove - 1611 Lamar (on the Discovery Green)

Sugar Salad from a Lady Who Lunched

2009-04-04T08:21:00.001-05:00

I inherited my grandmother’s massive recipe box after her death in 2007. She was a prolific cook, using her joint Serbian-Southern heritage to dazzle and inspire. I love pouring through her recipes and notes to see just how meticulous she was in the kitchen, but one card has always puzzled me:

~~~~~~~

Cinnamon Stars Salad
6 apples
1/2 cup red cinnamon candy
1/4 cup sugar
2 cups water
Cream cheese
Chopped walnuts
Chopped celery
Mayonnaise

Pare and core apples. Cook candies and sugar in water until dissolved. Add whole apples and cook slowly until translucent, but not soft. Chill. Cut apples in sixths to within 1/2-inch of bottom. Combine cream cheese with chopped walnuts and celery, and add enough mayonnaise to moisten. Stuff apples with mixture and top with chopped nuts.

~~~~~~~

OK. Three things confound me about this recipe. First of all, the title. The “cinnamon” and “stars” I get, but can anything with candy dissolved in sugar-water really qualify as a salad? Second, neither my mom nor her three siblings remember this dish. Third -- and perhaps strangest -- this recipe does not show up in Google. Like, anywhere. I have exhausted all efforts to locate something similar.

Are there other folks out there searching for specific enlightenment? Has anyone heard of or (better yet) eaten it? Is anyone else picturing my grandmother looking down at me with a “joke’s-on-you” expression? Someone help me out, here!

Bryan Caswell and the Key to the City

2009-04-03T11:27:00.000-05:00

Hip hop hooray for Bryan Caswell, who was just named a Best New Chef from Food & Wine Magazine! Though Caswell may not be “new” to the Houston food scene, his impact has certainly evolved over the last year. There’s so much to like about this unassuming guy who continues to wow critics with the far reaches of his influence.

TECHNIQUE-DRIVEN
Last Saturday at REEF I firstly fell in love with the tempura soft shell. Lightly fried with a batter rich on flavor, REEF’s version is exquisite -- not mealy, which is easy to do -- underscoring Caswell’s emphasis on technical perfection. The perennial favorite crispy-skin snapper over tomato brown butter only reinforces this idea.

INVENTIVE
Caswell’s menu is stylistic without trend. The tuna bacon with sour apple appetizer explores the reaches of our palates, combining sweet, sour, and savory into a combo that somehow clicks. The jumbo lump lollipops always impress, and last summer’s beet ravioli was certainly the talk of the Web.

FOR THE PEOPLE
Thank you, Bryan, for bringing us Little Big’s, the acclaimed slider joint in Montrose! It is just what we needed: A simple menu made from quality meats and veggies, all in a space that’s casual, welcoming, and fun. But please add more heat to the crispy chicken :)

Congratulations, Chef Caswell -- We are ever-impressed, excited, and appreciative! Don't. Ever. Change.

Anvil Bar and Refuge

2009-03-31T12:26:00.000-05:00

Last weekend I finally made it to Anvil, where owner Bobby Heugel mixed us up some sensational afternoon cocktails. Anvil -- which you probably have heard of by now -- replaces the lowly Daiquiri Factory on the Westheimer bend (How’s that for a trade up?) and has been collecting disciples left and right.

I have to admit that I’m on the A-train now, too. This place -- and I mean everything about it -- is impressive. Anvil is owned and run by a team of folks focused on the dying art of the cocktail. While the Prohibition-era drinks are the main draw, Anvil also boasts a beer selection of 40+ (mostly Belgians and microbrews), along with a few choice wines.

Sound overwhelming? Get a rec from Behind-the-Bar Bobby, who gave us an on-the-spot history of the margarita, plus a nice primer on cocktails through the ages. Does such an in-depth understanding of booze translate to the cocktails, themselves? All I know is that my Pimm’s Cup was plain awesome.

Owner Bobby Heugel skillfully slips the egg white into what will eventually become...

A pisco sour. Mmmmmm!

Anvil Bar and Refuge -- 1424 Westheimer

Waffle House, Lard, and Rose-Colored Glasses

2009-03-26T23:41:00.000-05:00

This morning I had breakfast at Waffle House. That’s right. Waffle House. I luuuv me some Waffle House, so when two students invited us to join them for an early breakfast, I jumped at the chance.

I have fond memories (read: hazy recollections) of Waffle House from college. We used to cab to the closest WaHou -- which was about 15 minutes from campus -- around 3am to grub on what was clearly a fine example of pure culinary genius (PCG). It was almost always packed, but we crammed ourselves into a booth, laughing about old funnies and making new ones. Never had I seen the interior of a Waffle House by the light of day, but that didn’t matter. Ten-year-old memories tell me that Waffle House riggity rules.

Walking in this morning I felt the undeniable sense of regret. Should I have accepted this invitation knowing full well that the Waffle House of today can *never* live up to Waffle House circa 1998? Am I gonna haveta take the framed copy of the Waffle House menu out of my pantry? Do they still have that bucket of lard next to the griddle?

Hesitations firmly under wraps, I went with my ancient usual: a sausage, egg, and cheese sandwich (on white bread, of course) and a waffle. What I learned was many-fold:

1) The waffles at Waffle House are not bad. If you are striving for a breakfast that qualifies as not bad, there you go. But the sausage, egg, and cheese sandwich (on white bread, of course) is not good.

2) Waffle House has made an attempt to get with the times and now offers “lite” items. Like a Lite Waffle. I barf all over this idea.

3) There is still a bucket of lard next to the griddle, making the previous item even more hilarious.

4) The salty cooks and waitresses are 100% the same, and 100% awesome. And the people-watching is not to be missed. For reals.

5) It seems likely that I will never eat at a Waffle House again.

In all honestly, breakfast this morning was crazy fun and did nothing to dispel my love of college-era Waffle House.

Good news: The framed menu can stay.

Loving Cup Rice Pudding Bar

2009-03-22T10:12:00.000-05:00

Ambling down Polk Street in San Francisco last week, I found Loving Cup, a relatively new rice pudding bar.

Um, rice pudding bar? Yes! Who knew? Walk into a well-lit, welcoming small space where the lady behind the counter takes you through the flavors of the day. Loving Cup features five keen flavors of rice pudding daily, with a full rotation of about thirty. Holy cow. In my short stay in SF, I tried the pistachio, lemon-vanilla, and pumpkin... but was sinfully tempted by the chocolate-thin-mint, mango, mocha, and Madagascar vanilla. There’s certainly a flavor for every mood -- and they’re all light, healthy, and delicious.

Loving Cup is -- in a word -- dreamy. I’d love love love to see one in Houston. But could this concept even work here? It would *rule* to get beyond the ubiquitous frozen yogurt, but we’d need to find a health-conscious area with plenty of foot traffic.

So my guess is... No. Or am I just being pessimistic?

A girl can dream. [Sigh]

In-N-Out Burger

2009-03-21T16:36:00.000-05:00

As soon as my foot hits the warm California pavement, the carnivore in me comes out. I know: Sounds weird that a Texan goes to California for a good burger, but Cali, after all, is home to In-N-Out.

In-N-Out Burger is the fresh fast food with a cult-like following. And to me, it’s the very antithesis of McDonald’s... In-N-Out is still a family-owned business, nurtured and grown over the years primarily through word-of-mouth advertising. They pay employees well and offer benefits like paid vacation, health insurance, and a 401k. Golden Arches? Not so much.

The menu exudes simplicity. You can get a hamburger, a cheeseburger, or a double-double, plus fries, a drink, or a shake. Nada mas. And everything -- from burgers to fries to shakes -- is made fresh on location. No freezers allowed.

Now that’s all well and good, but how does it taste? FRESH. The burgers are something special, old-fashioned, but without a lot of hullabahoo. The fries are definitely missing that extra something which only the fryers at McDonald’s seem to contain -- let’s call it grease from 1982 -- but the burgers and shakes more than compensate. Like they say, it’s quality you can taste.

I miss it already.

Tasty Salted Pig Parts

2009-03-17T10:56:00.000-05:00

My standard Saturday morning breakfast in SF is the astronomical plate of Chilaquiles at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, a food Mecca if there ever was one. I crave this dish. I dream of this dish. I want to make out with this dish. It is rad.

But not ten minutes after I stuffed down my brekkie this weekend did I discover this bad boy, a new addition to the Ferry Building.

Tasty salted pig parts?! [Swoon.] And as I freak out about the amazingness of this sign, my astute friend Julie quietly puts me in my place by pointing out that the sign is redundant: Salted pig parts are *always* tasty.

Touché.

A Dog, a Cat, and a Rat

2009-03-16T10:59:00.000-05:00

Economy got you down? Here’s a thought.

The guy below was walking down Union Street in San Francisco last Saturday with a dog, a cat, and a rat -- all carefully balanced -- pausing to take pictures with the suckers (like me!) who were out ‘n about. After collecting a *tidy* profit, he jumped into a cab, menagerie and all, to panhandle another part of town. Seems the recession has not affected him greatly.

Only in San Francisco. Crazy, cartoonish, entrepreneurial San Francisco.

San Francisco’s Top 100

2009-03-13T12:16:00.000-05:00

Today as the school bell rings, I will Fred Flintstone myself out the window and head to lovely San Francisco for Spring Break. SPRING BREAK!! [Huge sigh of relief.]

Now. After living in San Francisco for seven years, I’ve knocked off a mere 30% of 7x7’s 100 SF Things to Try Before You Die. Think I can check off the rest of them in a week?

Adventuring Out: Greek

2009-03-10T08:45:00.000-05:00

This semester we’ve starting taking our students to try new foods. They’re not required trips, but anyone who wants to expand the ol’ comfort zone is welcome to join. In January we took nine brave souls to try Indian food for the first time. February found us with seventeen students trying Vietnamese. And last week we took a whopping thirty-five kiddos on a maiden voyage to a Greek place near campus.

Greek food -- according to them -- is distinctly less “weird” than either of the previous ethnicities. We started out with a few orders of hummus and pita to get the party started, and then moved onto dolmades, grilled shrimp, and beyond. Lookin’ good...

Most students ordered Gyros for dinner and were pleasantly surprised with the stack of crispy French fries that showed up alongside. They loved the thin slices of meaty lamb and adored the soft, steamy pita bread. A few students went one step further, ordering shish kebobs, crab cakes, or pastichio, and then raving about it all afterward.

We ended the night with a few orders of baklava to share for dessert, and reactions were decidedly mixed. Most enjoyed the consistency of the Phyllo and the sticky-sweet flavor of the honey-soaked pistachios, while others were terribly vocal in their hatred.

The entire evening was fun and festive. The good news is that the kiddos have really taken to this new food thing! They love asking what’s what on the menu, sampling new flavors, and giving their opinions afterward. The bad news is that the group size was a little overwhelming... I don’t want to limit the number of students that go, but thirty-five teenage diners is, um, quite loud.

Next up? Crawfish and oysters at Floyd’s. I know next to nothing about crawfish, so will be learning right alongside the students. If there are any experts out there who’d like to give up an evening to join us down on Nasa Road 1, please, please, please let me know. I’ll buy your mudbugs!

It’s Hard to Have a Bad Weekend When...

2009-03-09T10:43:00.001-05:00

You start out with an ever-fabulous #1 combo meal (with cheese) at Whataburger in glorious Pasadena. Always a winner in my mind.

And end with the sinfully rich Carrot Cake French Toast at the South Congress Café in Austin. Who decides to take an awesome-in-its-own-right dessert and pan fry it for brunch? Because I heart you.

Belly out. Hootie-hoo!

Asia Market

2009-03-05T11:30:00.000-06:00

Strange circumstances found me with a free-ish afternoon in the city last week, and the first thing that needed attention was my belly. Ha HA. I smell a food-venture. Where to go, what to do?

I settled on Asia Market, a small Thai restaurant and grocery on Cavalcade near Main. I had been meaning to try the place since I read about it in the Fearless Critic, but had yet to venture over... My mistake. Seriously.

What was once clearly a Stop ‘N Go in a former life is now a hotspot of activity. The small parking lot was full, and what I found inside was a warm and welcoming space, bustling with people. And everyone -- whether shopping, eating, or serving -- had a smile on. The atmosphere is one of casual warmth.

I ordered a few dishes to try and then set out to explore the small market, where you’ll find dozens of varieties of fish sauce, plus things like galangal, bamboo shoots, Thai spices, preserved duck egg, and... fermented lettuce. Huh.

The real winner, of course, is the food. The green papaya salad, which you just can’t find at many Thai places here, is wonderfully flavorful and s-s-s-spicy. Get it with the tiny dried shrimp... and don’t forget to order a side of sticky rice to go with it.

Pad Se Ew is my favorite Thai dish, and the one here is top notch. Wide rice noodles stir fried with garlic, egg, light soy sauce, and Chinese broccoli (which is more like green onion). Rice noodles have such an incredible texture to them -- meaty and dense. And besides, they’re just downright fun to eat.

On my two return trips I tried the also-fantastic Kee Mao noodles, wide rice noodles stir fried with basil, egg, onion, cherry tomatoes, garlic, and chili sauce. And the Tom Kha Ga, traditional Thai hot and sour soup with coconut milk, galangal, and chicken. Creamy, spicy, tremendous. I’ve yet to find a disappointment.

A few final randoms: 1) Portions are huge. Plenty to split or take home for your next day’s lunch. 2) Want a napkin? Take a paper towel of the roll in the center. 3) FYI, they’re open Tuesday through Sunday, 10am to 7pm.

Asia Market is only minutes away from my house in the Heights, making it my new go-to joint for pick-up. See you there!

Asia Market - 1010 W. Cavalcade

Brennan’s to Reopen in October

2009-03-03T10:43:00.000-06:00

Bananas Foster, anyone?

You’re *almost* in luck! The venerable Brennan’s announced today that it will reopen this October, restoring a hefty 80% of its crazy-cool-and-historic original building...

“Houston Mayor Bill White and restaurateur Alex Brennan Martin announced at a press conference today that the esteemed Brennan’s of Houston would re-emerge at its long-standing Smith Street address this fall, just 13 months after having been damaged by fire as a result of Hurricane Ike. Slated to open in October 2009, the restored Brennan’s is expected to bring an additional 125 jobs back to Midtown.”

Hooray -- Let the countdown begin!

Crazylicious Dessert Tasting at Textile

2009-03-01T11:45:00.000-06:00

Most people don’t dream of dessert. But here at Great Food Houston, I do. Even still, the thought of a five-course dessert tasting from Houston’s top pastry chef was at least as much intimidating as it was exciting. Could I handle five courses of sweet... on top of five courses of savory? As it turns out, I can. [Sigh]

Before we begin, let’s get this on the table: It is a devastating understatement to call pastry chef Plinio Sandalio talented. He is a soft-spoken, always-innovating, intensely creative beast in the kitchen. Houston is lucky to have him... though we won’t have him for much longer. Ardent to nurture his skill, Sandalio plans to move to Chicago next year. So. The clock is on. Get thee to Textile. Or to Gravitas. Both bear his sugar stamp.

OK. Our first dessert was a bittersweet chocolate orb filled with quince juice and topped with honey. I popped that sucker like a pill and was amazed at the insanely smooth combination of flavors. The slight bitterness of the chocolate played well with the slight sweetness of the quince juice, which all benefited from the lingering bit ‘o honey. Interesting and yum.

Course two was a vanilla pound cake with apple confiture and blue cheese ice cream. The creative flavor combination was certainly pinnacled by the ice cream. While blue cheese might not sound like a gotta-have-it 31-flavor, the taste was beautifully mild. Plinio has said before that he considers ice cream to be more of a sauce. In this sense, the unique tang is perfect.

Course three? Coffee and milk. Aka: pain perdu with ice milk, bacon streusel, and coffee foam. The smoky bacon streusel added a fantastically unique flavor to the traditional French toast. The coffee foam was a little bitter for me, but the supple French toast more than made up for it. Delicious.

Next was a grapefruit pisco sour, topped with foam and rimmed with pop rocks. To make this, Sandalio mixes the drink in a siphon, then charges it with nitrous oxide cartridges and chills it for an hour. The drink had just a hint of sweetness and served as an ideal palate cleanser before the big hizzah.

Finally came the sweet potato beignets with pecan streusel, honey, and -- wait for it -- bacon ice cream. The diminutive beignets were warm/crispy on the outside, steamy/soft on the inside, rich, dense, delicious. And, Lord, the bacon ice cream. Again, Plinio takes an intensely savory taste and tones it down to let the best part of the flavor just creep through. Dy-no-mite.

Last but never least came the mignardises. Mignardises are bite-sized desserts, much like bonbons. Ours included a lemon truffle, a white ganache truffle, a shortbread, and a cocoa nib brittle. The perfect ending to a perfect meal.

[The Elite King of Sweet. Don’t leave us, Plinio!]

Textile Revisited

2009-02-27T14:00:00.000-06:00

I walked into Textile this week with fond memories of my previous trip there, which was waaaay back in October. I walked out -- ten courses later -- with a smile on my face that has not yet faded. Now that’s what I call Friday night food on a Wednesday.

Ten courses, you say? Yes, our five-course dinner was topped off with a five-course dessert tasting. That’s right: five dinners, five desserts. And we all lived to tell. Alright, less gushing, more fooding.

The amuse bouche was a slender cup of cream of rapini soup, topped with a stalk of rapini tempura. The soup had an incredibly clean taste, highlighting the freshness of the veggies within. The richness of the soup made it an ideal amuse, as any other size would overwhelm.

This was followed by a simple and simply delicious salad of hydroponic bibb lettuce, fromage d’Ambert, and a cute (that’s right, I said it) onion strudel. While the strudel and salad were lovely, the real star was the cheese, a creamy and mellow bleu that complimented without overpowering.

Next came a European turbot atop a cauliflower soufflé. The airy texture of the soufflé, along with its mild flavor, melded perfectly with the turbot, a delicate flatfish akin to a sole. Again, clean, fresh flavors, beautifully prepared and presented.

And then? The bacon tart with poached quail egg, wilted greens, and aged balsamic is a certain winner. No surprise that this one has stayed on the menu for some time; it is difficult to find fault with its gorgeous presentation and downright awesome taste. It is, after all, a bacon tart.

The star of the savories arrived last: a tender, pink cut of pork, cooked sous vide in pork fat, topped with a thin-crispy layer of wheat flour, and served over a balsamic reduction. I at first thought the meat looked “too pink,” but alas, one bite proved me wrong. It was tender and rich and packed with meaty flavor and goodness and sin and love. The black “forbidden” rice served alongside was a velvety dream. Fireworks.

Scott Tycer has built himself a nice little practice in the revamped textile factory, a uniquely serene space that also houses his Kraftsmen bakery. Every table was filled. Service was attentive and down to Earth. Even the music was distinctly unstuffy.

Dessert recap forthcoming. Stay tuned, food fans. It’s a doozy.

Textile – 611 W. 22nd (near Shepherd)